I just copied this over and removed any reference to my website. Premise is the same for any CPU though this was done on a 3770k, thought some people may be interested.
Let me start with a little warning. The following two procedures I am going to be discussing may result in the permanent
damage of your CPU or IHS. Please think long and hard before you decide to take a knife to your processor. Also keep in mind that not all Intel
CPUs can be delidded and the following was done with an Intel 3770k. Please do your research before attempting to delid anything other than Ivy Bridge processors.
I decided I wanted to break past the 5 Ghz wall of my 3770k.
I had pushed the CPU to 4.5 Ghz and slowly started climbing beyond 4.8 until I reached a stable 4.9Ghz. I noticed the temperatures weren't bad, low 70s with Intel burn test, far below anything dangerous.
I decided to push it to 5 Ghz and when I did the temperatures went into the 80s. Keep in mind 80 degrees at that voltage even under water isn't bad. I needed 1.43 volts to get 4.9 Ghz stable,
to get past the wall and get a stable run with Intel burn test at 5ghz, I needed about 1.52 volts (not recommended unless you like bending the rules). I stumbled across this fun and risky little procedure
known as delidding. I decided that if I was going to push beyond 5ghz I was going to need to do anything to drop my temperatures.
Poor contact between the die and the IHS along with poor TIM application can cause significantly higher temperatures. The process of delidding allows it to be redone right, which I would say sounds
pretentious, except it works. The First step is to make sure you are working on an anti-static surface, paper will work. The majority of processor damage is actually caused by static rather than physical damage with the knife.
Also use an anti-static bracelet if you have one. The hardest part is getting the blade between the PCB and the IHS. I found it easiest to start with the centre of the blade on the corner of the CPU as opposed to using
the corner of the blade on the side. Wiggle the knife left and right slowly and keep pressure towards the IHS to avoid scratching the PCB. Once you have got the blade in, carefully wiggle the blade from
Corner to corner making sure you don't push in to far as you do not want to scratch the die. You can see in the picture bellow, roughly how wide the glue is applied. Once you have gone all the way around, carefully pull the IHS away from
the PCB.
After you have separated the IHS from the PCB you will want to remove all the old thermal paste and use your nail to gently remove as much of the left over glue as possible.
Now that you have put all that hard work into removing the IHS you don't want to use just any old thermal paste; In fact, you don't want to use thermal paste at all. Liquid Ultra is the only thing you want to put on the die. Made by Coollaboratory, Liquid Ultra is 100% metal which unlike thermal paste, must be spread in an even thin layer when applying. It also works significantly better than traditional thermal paste. In my case I originally applied arctic silver after delidding and lapping the
the IHS which dropped the temperatures by approximately 10 degrees. I ordered Liquid Ultra the same week and after applying it both to the die and between the water block and IHS I saw an additional 15 degree drop in temperature
for a total approximate difference of 25 degrees. You can order Liquid Ultra from www.coollaboratory.com for 8.90 Euros. Your application should look something like this:
Gently put the CPU in place without the IHS. Place the IHS on top of the CPU but make sure to place it slightly higher than where it is supposed to be as it will get pushed down slightly when you close the latch.
Hold the IHS in place with one finger while closing the latch with your free hand. If all went well you shouldn't even be able to tell that the IHS was placed in separately.
There is actually one other thing you may want to do which I mentioned at the beginning, lap the IHS. The surface of the IHS may be slightly uneven and therefore your water block
or heatsink won't make complete contact. Sanding the surface flat may decrease temperatures by a few degrees. I noticed a difference when doing this but you may decide it is not worth the time it takes to sand it down.
Let me start with a little warning. The following two procedures I am going to be discussing may result in the permanent
damage of your CPU or IHS. Please think long and hard before you decide to take a knife to your processor. Also keep in mind that not all Intel
CPUs can be delidded and the following was done with an Intel 3770k. Please do your research before attempting to delid anything other than Ivy Bridge processors.
I decided I wanted to break past the 5 Ghz wall of my 3770k.
I had pushed the CPU to 4.5 Ghz and slowly started climbing beyond 4.8 until I reached a stable 4.9Ghz. I noticed the temperatures weren't bad, low 70s with Intel burn test, far below anything dangerous.
I decided to push it to 5 Ghz and when I did the temperatures went into the 80s. Keep in mind 80 degrees at that voltage even under water isn't bad. I needed 1.43 volts to get 4.9 Ghz stable,
to get past the wall and get a stable run with Intel burn test at 5ghz, I needed about 1.52 volts (not recommended unless you like bending the rules). I stumbled across this fun and risky little procedure
known as delidding. I decided that if I was going to push beyond 5ghz I was going to need to do anything to drop my temperatures.
Poor contact between the die and the IHS along with poor TIM application can cause significantly higher temperatures. The process of delidding allows it to be redone right, which I would say sounds
pretentious, except it works. The First step is to make sure you are working on an anti-static surface, paper will work. The majority of processor damage is actually caused by static rather than physical damage with the knife.
Also use an anti-static bracelet if you have one. The hardest part is getting the blade between the PCB and the IHS. I found it easiest to start with the centre of the blade on the corner of the CPU as opposed to using
the corner of the blade on the side. Wiggle the knife left and right slowly and keep pressure towards the IHS to avoid scratching the PCB. Once you have got the blade in, carefully wiggle the blade from
Corner to corner making sure you don't push in to far as you do not want to scratch the die. You can see in the picture bellow, roughly how wide the glue is applied. Once you have gone all the way around, carefully pull the IHS away from
the PCB.
After you have separated the IHS from the PCB you will want to remove all the old thermal paste and use your nail to gently remove as much of the left over glue as possible.
Now that you have put all that hard work into removing the IHS you don't want to use just any old thermal paste; In fact, you don't want to use thermal paste at all. Liquid Ultra is the only thing you want to put on the die. Made by Coollaboratory, Liquid Ultra is 100% metal which unlike thermal paste, must be spread in an even thin layer when applying. It also works significantly better than traditional thermal paste. In my case I originally applied arctic silver after delidding and lapping the
the IHS which dropped the temperatures by approximately 10 degrees. I ordered Liquid Ultra the same week and after applying it both to the die and between the water block and IHS I saw an additional 15 degree drop in temperature
for a total approximate difference of 25 degrees. You can order Liquid Ultra from www.coollaboratory.com for 8.90 Euros. Your application should look something like this:
Gently put the CPU in place without the IHS. Place the IHS on top of the CPU but make sure to place it slightly higher than where it is supposed to be as it will get pushed down slightly when you close the latch.
Hold the IHS in place with one finger while closing the latch with your free hand. If all went well you shouldn't even be able to tell that the IHS was placed in separately.
There is actually one other thing you may want to do which I mentioned at the beginning, lap the IHS. The surface of the IHS may be slightly uneven and therefore your water block
or heatsink won't make complete contact. Sanding the surface flat may decrease temperatures by a few degrees. I noticed a difference when doing this but you may decide it is not worth the time it takes to sand it down.
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