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Dr.Peltier

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  • #31
    I've had that same problem Markes12344. Found that if you push the wire into the back of the connector like really hard, keeping pressure on the wire while inserting that tool, it may help. Those little wings can be pretty nasty. Great build. It's like technology gone wild.
    The SLOB : A 3570K Build
    Down & Out : A 2600K Build
    V-353 : A 4770K Build

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    • #32
      Yes the factory cables/connectors can be quite difficult to remove the cables from.
      When inserting the tool try to push the cable into the connector and hold it in it's most forward position.
      Then try to slide tool in, ensuring it goes down each side of pin, all the way to the shoulder section of the tool is touching the connector.
      Now try to pull wire out the back.

      Another method is to use two staples straightened out instead of the tool. One staple on each side of pin push in with pliers.

      I usually just buy new connectors rather than going through the trouble of tearing the factory ones apart.

      If the plug doesn't want to slide into the PSU connector , take a look at how each pin is sitting in the plug. If they are not well centered then you may need to jiggle the wire on that pin to get it sitting better in the plug.

      Sleeving takes a lot of patience and practice. If you haven't watched how Lutro's videos on how he does his I would highly recommend them. They are a little slow and boring at times but he does show and explain most of the tricks required to do an excellent job of sleeving.
      Blue Dragon CM690 II an i7 - 960 x58 build
      OverKill HTPC - Red Team Build an AMD FX6100 with dual HD 5870's in crossfire.
      Canadian Amateur Modding Competition

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      • #33
        Thanx Wattemain, also I had to use the wire push method when the molex connectors wire was 22awg a lot, 18awg sometimes.. and this method isn't working. I ended up experimenting with a pull extra hard kinda method once I was a deep as I could get with pin pushed in to the max, and it worked 3/6 times, 2/2 copper held, +12v 22awg pulled out of pin, aluminum 18awg negative snapped at crimp, and negative aluminum 22awg just got cut.. new plan, down one connector, 3 pins.
        Originally posted by Hooded View Post
        Another method is to use two staples straightened out instead of the tool. One staple on each side of pin push in with pliers.

        I usually just buy new connectors rather than going through the trouble of tearing the factory ones apart.

        If the plug doesn't want to slide into the PSU connector , take a look at how each pin is sitting in the plug. If they are not well centered then you may need to jiggle the wire on that pin to get it sitting better in the plug.

        Sleeving takes a lot of patience and practice. If you haven't watched how Lutro's videos on how he does his I would highly recommend them. They are a little slow and boring at times but he does show and explain most of the tricks required to do an excellent job of sleeving.
        Was hoping to experiment enough to figure but I guess I really just should upload all the pics.. hold on, I have the run already sleeved and ran back into PSU bay., but I will defiantly check it out if I run into deep issues.
        Bought new one's, with them and the combs it's really like Lego all over again.
        Never tried a couple staples, but I could give it a good attempt though, better give myself a few staples., thanx for the suggestion.
        Last edited by Markes12344; 12-01-2017, 03:00 AM.

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        • #34
          Sleaving Start






          Danger once heatshrunk, sleeving pulls over, but combs won't


          Pump Extensions



          I tested multiple ways to get a comb onto a wire, and found the found it's best to stat the sleeving with melted thin, or coned tips than push them through the colmbs, than onto wire and slide to crimped/ finished end of loop. Than use them to pull the paracord the best it can be taught, as you back them up while you lay the cable in place towards the loose end. I do wonder tho if I'd have the wires precut and terminated at both ends ,but finished on one end, and than protected the pin and pull/push through the paracord and comb(s) if that would work, I shall have to test that.


          This is how I'd like all my crimps to look like.



          I think I got it down to a science now, Right is right, Left is old method..


          It sure is easiest starting a run than it is finishing it.

          Side notes I really have a luv hate relation for 18-22awg wire, asides from their magic pixy limited capability.. The sleeving moves really easy. maybe if I used adhesive heat shrink, at a pump tip. I put 3/8 on the D5 that has two 18awg and the two 22awg, and used the heat from about 40watts on a soldering iron to shrink it, it seems to work pretty good.

          Good thing you only see top side of all this pump work tho, we'll see what the final product turns out like.
          Fans, thermal couplers, audio, front panel, rgb may not end up sleeved by due date, sure would like to though.
          Last edited by Markes12344; 12-04-2017, 02:16 AM.

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          • #35
            14:00

            Time to crimp

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            • #36
              Final PhotoShoot

              So this has been one heck of a weekend.
              Got the computer photo ready and here ya go!!
















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              • #37
                Nice work !!! red led very look good !!!

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                • #38
                  So i made a response, but it didn't work.. I'll try again...

                  So first off thanx for anyone whom appreciates the enginuity i tried to throw in here. I tried to get better pictures for this response, but the canna truley needs a tripod to get them photos everyone wants.. I sure tried my hardest first time hard pipe first time sleeving.... Overall for amature i thought it was excellent turns out im just rookie.. Not sure how unique my cable run is, doing 16awg copper wasn't the best choice 16awg woulda been way easier, but my knowledge on how much current is actually flowing though the gpu mobob and cpu is just not there so over kill i went.. The water loop having two loops within one, figured that was truley unique, but must be to hard to understand, i feel my whole computer is to complicated for everyone with my lack in forum and pictorial skills. In the end i sure did enjoy it, as disappointed as i am, but hey i'm against a few pros here so how can I even compete.. Regardless of all, hopefully my bank allows me to compete next yeah, ttfn.

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                  • #39
                    I still think you have a great build here and did very well.
                    If you had gotten in a little sooner, I think you would have done better as you had to rush to get it finished.
                    Really well done, hope to see you with another one next year
                    Blue Dragon CM690 II an i7 - 960 x58 build
                    OverKill HTPC - Red Team Build an AMD FX6100 with dual HD 5870's in crossfire.
                    Canadian Amateur Modding Competition

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                    • #40
                      Amount of work on wiring is stuggering. Very well done. It is always extra challenge to do wiring for an open space case.
                      __________________________________________________
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