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**xAznxStylezx** · 12-26-2021, 04:14 AM

I started with some PSU extension cables but didn't like the colorways of most pre-made. I ended up buying this set from EZDIY FAB.

I then de-pinned all of the cables so I could arrange them in an order that is more to my taste, and was deciding between these two gradients:

Ended up with the black on the outside, putt everything back together and they turned out amazing. The quality and thickness of this EZDIY-FAB cable was beyond my expectations.

Started out with fitting in my rads for fitment and tube routing.

Used two rotary fittings to connect the bottom rad with the res, but was off by a few MM to line up with a straight tube.

Similarly, I was about the same offset distance from the in-port to the side rad.

I then found some thick rubber gaskets that would raise the res off of the side rad enough so that all of the fittings line up parallel, and I could use straight runs for both. I also made some offset mounting brackets for the res because I did not have enough heigh adjustment with heatkiller's brackets.

Stripped the motherboard down, and installed the VRM block and CPU. This optimus block is beautiful and a work of art. Heatkiller's VRM block compliments it nicely.

I wasn't feeling the white fans with the noise blockers this time around, so I opted to swap them out with some Arctic P12 fans and dazzled them up with Halos. Much better IMO.

Since I fit such a huge rad on the side, I wasn't able to fit the USB3.0 headers into the slot, but found these super useful low profile connectors that worked perfectly and could clear the rad.

Also didn't really like the DIMM NVME adapters that ASUS provides, so I found this simple low profile NVME to PCIE connector to use instead.

At the same time when I swapped my fans out for the Arctics, I thought of a way to install a drain valve in the best position, that would require the least amount of tilt but would also be aesthetically pleasing. Since the XE360 has ports on the top and bottom, I tried fitting in a 90 elbow fitting with some soft tube to route around. It just cleared the case and I could route the tube out from one of the cable management holes.

At the other end of the tube, I installed a ball valve with stop fitting. This way I could drop the tube very low into a tub, turn the valve and my system would drain completely. (minus the side rad)

Back to the main build... all fittings are in place and my tube runs have been planned.

A tip for anyone who doesn't have an RFB, or can't justify purchasing one like me. If you have a cordless drill and one of these deburring tools, you can tighten the pointy end into the hutch and make a poormans RFB. It works perfectly even on acrylic.

First time using 16mm... and you definitely have a harder time making small bend radius. I was having problems clearing my GPU to CPU run.

I then thought of a different kind of run, and it actually looks way better, and was easier to fit since I had more room to work with. I like how it wraps around the GPU cables too.

All tubes fully in place and tightened. I used two 90 elbow fittings on the side rad to the VRM block so that I could clear the top rad+fans AND have the run parallel since I had so much room for adjustment.

When I made my first build with 12mm tubing, I was actually able to get all of my bends the first try and had no wastage...16mm is more tricky but I still think that I didn't do too bad considering how many multi-bends I had in my build.

Comparison between 12mm and 16mm... 16mm fits in the Dynamic XL way better and makes 12mm seem kind of anemic.

Back cables cleaned up and hidden with the panel. FYI for other XL users that have long PSU's like I do, you can move the PSU to the middle position so that you can use the cover. If you keep it on the bottom, the panel won't be able to fit.

First fill with some cryofuel clear.

Finished but.... surprise surprise I'm a fool and installed the barrowch module backwards when I was cleaning it...so it doesn't provide a reading.

Drained my entire loop (and tested my drain valve, and it worked great. I was able to also connect a mini hand pump to my SR2's multi port to push fluid out.

Aaaaaaaand I need to drain it again. After a few hours, my res started getting very cloudy. I cleaned my rads, but I guess I didn't clean them well enough.

Fully drained everything, dissasembled and wiped down the gunk that was on the walls of my res and tubes. I then ran water through my rads via the tub for an hour, and finished it off with rinsing/shaking with distilled.

Fully reassembled, and filled with Mayhems x1 clear.

**section31** · 12-26-2021, 03:15 PM

Great job. Glad to see my components continuing to be used (not get flipped).

**DazMode** · 01-15-2022, 03:05 PM

Good to see somebody else using my method of cleaning radiators

**section31** · 01-17-2022, 01:38 AM

Originally posted by DazMode View Post

Good to see somebody else using my method of cleaning radiators

Even watercool new internal rads require lot of cleaning. Whoever brand that make an clean rad out of the box with same performance as hwl gtx/ekwb xe or better will sell well.

**xAznxStylezx** · 01-21-2022, 06:22 PM

Originally posted by section31 View Post

Great job. Glad to see my components continuing to be used (not get flipped).

Yup! Going to be using them for a very long time haha.

Originally posted by DazMode View Post

Good to see somebody else using my method of cleaning radiators

Definitely the easiest way to do it, works like a charm.

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