Corsair 380T.5 aka "Laggy"

[10e]

I recently became somewhat infatuated with the Corsair 380T. I love small systems and this "pet-carrier" style lan box seems to offer a lot of neat features without looking stupid. It has a slim 240mm side radiator mount perfect for a Corsair H100i or (presumably) a Darkside LP240 radiator and fans in push, and the front has room for multiple fans in stock configuration, either 2x120mm, 1x140mm or 1x200mm, as well as a back side mounted 120mm fan.

I decided that I wanted to do something with it to make it a little bit better in terms of usability, and a lot better for water cooling. A few customizations are in order.

Here's the initial list of components:

CPU: Core I7 4790K with multi-core enhancement to 4.4Ghz on all cores ( I need VT-D extensions, thus the Devil's canyon CPU)
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Impact
RAM: G.Skill Trident X DDR3 2400mhz 2x8GB
Video Card: Gigabyte WindForce R9 290X (GV-R929XOC-4GD)
PSU: SilverStone ST75F-P PSU with PP05-E short cable kit (gonna be shrinkless sleeved, my first sleeving job evah)
HD: 1 x OCZ Octane 500GB SSD, 1 x WD 750GB blue 2.5" HD


Water cooling:

1 x Swiftech H220X
1 x Swiftech G1/4-OP fitting replacing the inside fitting on the H220X pump outlet port
1 x Darkside LP240 Radiator
1 x XSPC R9 290/X Water block with backplate and 3mm LEDs
8 x Matte black Bitspower 10/12mm hard tube fittings
2 x EK CSQ 45 degree angle rotary fittings in B-Lack
2 x EK CSQ 90 degree angle rotary fittings in B-Lack
1 x 500mm EK-HD 12mm acrylic tubing bent and cut (probably won't use anywhere near the full pack for such a small build)
1 x Bottle Feser Coolant

Case customizations:

Removal of rivets holding the motherboard tray (done)
Re-painting of motherboard tray to hide my nasty cutting and filing (done)
Drilling out of rivets holding the handle portion and replacement of rivets with M4 button cap socket driven M4 screws to allow removal and replacement of handle for ease of installation (done)
Paint of all the plastic panels (also done)
Replacement/swap of some LEDs like the one in the "dome" (Think of a car with the door dome light kinda)

There will be some experimentation on the fans. They are all Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120mm fans but some LEDs might get pulled out and replaced with alternate colors, but this is the only part of the build that hasn't been planned out.

[DazMode]

Looking forward for first pictures!

[Hero1]

This sounds interesting..subbed!

[Cyclops]

Word of warning. Spectre Pro fans are horrible. They move little air while generating way too much noise. I would swap them out for something better if I were you.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/f...nd-benchmarks/

On my test bench for example, a Noctua NF-P12 cools the processor 9 degrees further than the Spectre Pro while remaining on the same noise level.

[snef]

Cyclops your right and agree with you, they are better fan than spectre pro

but I never saw 9c diference between Spectre pro and SP120 High performance at same noise level, both at 1000rpm, not dead quiet but silent

its more around 1.5 or 2c max at full load

I seriously think for a low fin Rad, fans don't make any real difference

I used a lot of Specter pro and they do the joib very well on low fin rad

but the fact is, he need performance first or aesthetic? because these performance fan are so ugly, GT, Noctua and new EK one are very ugly and not cheap
eloop maybe, never have one

[Cyclops]

I tested these fans close to lab conditions snef, and when the NF-P12 performs 9C better at the same noise level, that renders the Spectre pro completely irrelevant. Heck, Even the older original Spectre fans perform better than Spectre Pros. They're just pure garbage and people only use them because they look good.

PS: running two different fans at the same RPM doesn't really do anything in terms of comparing performance, because one fan might be generating 35db, the other would be generating 40db. RPM comparisons are very inaccurate way of measuring fan performance.

[snef]

My point is not telling your are not right, im sure you are,

Just say, they are pure garbage is..maybe, the other extrem
And its not right,
Like i said , i use these a lot and they do the job, lab is one thing in real usage is other thing
And i tried a lot of fan and with low fin rad, i repeat, LOW fin rad, its not so important
And this include noctua,

Did you try a some in a full watercooled build? Not just one in lab?


Ps: i dont have scientific tools to mesure noise, i set it to 1000rpm and i dont give a shit what lab nerd ( not you) say from a labotary, at my ears they are at same noise level and dont have more than 2c delta

[Cyclops]

My point is not telling your are not right, im sure you are,

Just say, they are pure garbage is..maybe, the other extrem
And its not right,
Like i said , i use these a lot and they do the job, lab is one thing in real usage is other thing
And i tried a lot of fan and with low fin rad, i repeat, LOW fin rad, its not so important
And this include noctua,

Did you try a some in a full watercooled build? Not just one in lab?


Ps: i dont have scientific tools to mesure noise, i set it to 1000rpm and i dont give a shit what lab nerd ( not you) say from a labotary, at my ears they are at same noise level and dont have more than 2c delta

I understand you're trying to protect your purchase decision because you paid for them and are using them but there is no other way to describe them other than pure garbage. There are way too many better fans out there that provide more airflow at lower noise levels and when older, cheaper, spectre fans do a better job of displacing air while being quieter, describing them as pure garbage is justified.

[DazMode]

For modding build anything go as long as it fits vision for the build's looks.

For or working machine looks are secondary and product performance takes over.


you guys belong two opposite camps and would never be at same page

[snef]

Youre right Daz

I really dont like his attitude and be better to stop this discussion now
He is right, i protect my purchase, everything i buy is the best and everyone are wrong and stupid
Im thinking exactly like him

Im done with this discussion and him

[DazMode]

C'n guys. I really treasure that we have quite calm and mutually respectful atmosphere on forum. No need to get upset about "stuff". Everybody have their own idea of best, otherwise we would dress the same and drive same cars like clones!

[10e]

Comment and small change

You guys is so crazy.

1) Thanks for the info cyclops/hostilenemy, I knew they were bottom-of-the-barrel fans in terms of airflow to noise ratio, but they are super-easy to mod for LED changes as nothing is glued in. The original Spectre/PWM model is actually a much-much-better rad fan, but 3mm LEDs, glued wires, big mess.

So great, now I've picked up some other vendor's brand fan with LEDs that are far superior and easy-to-mod too. Thanks for spoiling my blissful non-ignorance! You suck

And I did read your oc.net article a long time ago, and yes I've seen your cute little Node 304 water-cooled build and your 3AM explanation too.

Pix incoming

[10e]

So I originally was going to paint this case red/white with a maple leaf in the middle of the front grill. I bought some Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2x Satin Poppy red, which I proudly destroyed Home Depot's high up rail to get ONE can. Long story short it didn't turn out. There goes my "Canada" theme.

Backup plan was to paint it my favorite color, which is blue, or an off-shoot of blue: Somehow while the red Rustoleum Paint sucked, the "lagoon" satin version was great! Same prep (clean with isopropanol,mineral spirits, sand, tack, etc...) worked out this time.

Thus the name Laggy.

Did double coats on all the panels except the front, which got a triple coat. I don't have time to invest in becoming a super-duper mega painter right now, so I "live within my means" of talent. Ie. almost none.

So the panels were removed, and painted, and I was pretty happy with the results. Other than a couple of tiny dust mites under the bottom panel paint and on the back panel, the paint jobs actually came out clean in my cold garage. Ignore the spot flashes these are from my basement pot lights.

The color is a bit more vibrant in real life (sRGB sucks dontchya know?)



So now we need room for Water cooling. Hello mister hacked off disk cage. All you do is block off the PSU and provide useless 3.5" drives. Bye-bye:



Next we needed to file/sand and paint the motherboard tray at the point of attack, and then lightly sand with 600 grit the rest of the tray. Then paint using my favorite: Tremclad flat black. It levels pretty well and hides scratches even with a single coat, so I did two.



So, to improve the case, the top handle and motherboard tray had all their rivets drilled out with a 1/8" drill bit and my backup, toy drill from Ryobi. One thing I find is that in some cases, 6-32 screws are suitable replacements, but most of the time I just use some carbon steel M4 screws to really get the job done and replace the rivets with those. From my favorite screwing place, Fastenal I bought some buttom cap socket M4 screws, like so:




More to come!

[Cyclops]

You guys is so crazy.

1) Thanks for the info cyclops/hostilenemy, I knew they were bottom-of-the-barrel fans in terms of airflow to noise ratio, but they are super-easy to mod for LED changes as nothing is glued in. The original Spectre/PWM model is actually a much-much-better rad fan, but 3mm LEDs, glued wires, big mess.

So great, now I've picked up some other vendor's brand fan with LEDs that are far superior and easy-to-mod too. Thanks for spoiling my blissful non-ignorance! You suck

And I did read your oc.net article a long time ago, and yes I've seen your cute little Node 304 water-cooled build and your 3AM explanation too.

Pix incoming

Hehehe, looks like you've done your homework!

[10e]

So the question is begged, why the Swiftech H220x?

The shortest length 240mm radiator I have is the Magicool 240mm, 45mm thick verson at 273mm. Unfortunately with the top handle assembly installed, there is only about 271-272mm clearance. The Swiftech H220X radiator is only 246mm in length. I have enough room for a reservoir and pump, but unfortunately going that route means I can only use (at most) a 140mm single radiator in the front. 180mm and 200mm radiators would clash with the side mounted Darkside 240mm regardless of where I place the end tanks/fittings, and I generally believe a single CPU and single GPU system is very well cooled by pretty much any set of dual 240mm radiators.

Here's an example of the Magicool 240mm standing in the front of the case. The issue is made even worse if I have to line up the screw holes by raising the rad 2-3mm:



And here is a photo of the Swiftech H220x radiator assembly next to the Magicool:



Now the Swiftech unit (IMHO) is not the prettiest unit out there, but it comes with a solid pump, a decent radiator, and a reservoir all built in. The only issue is that it cannot be used in full push-pull as only a third fan can be placed in the spacing where the pump isn't located, but that creates other issues with that fitting where the white tube is connected. This fitting is the one that is getting replaced by the G1/4-OP standard fitting and will get an acrylic tube.

The pump reservoir assembly will be on top in this build as it has a filling cap on that side, and I can use the bleed screw on the reservoir to bleed the system, which should work even better if the pump/rez is on top.

The other main color in this build will be revealed soon, and it's not the yellow Feser one coolant in the background