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[Build Log] Project: Cosmos Sv2 my dream build

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  • #31
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    Heatshrink rather than electrical tape on you sleeving is much cleaner and easier. Oh, and proper. No gooey mess when removed. But hey, if you dont have it, improvise. CanTire has a great assortment of heatshrink. Just be careful what you buy. Some is double walled with a sealant and adhesive. Either works great, but the double wall is harder to remove if you need to.

    Here is a little trick I do when sleeving. I use a razer knife to seperate the adhesive from the dual wall heatshrink. I cut it into little pieces and slip a small piece or two inside between the heatshrink and sleeving. This makes for a great bond, and can be released again with a little heat. Keeps the heatshrink where you want it.

    I am sure you can even find it in the size to cover the bottom of your D5 as you did with tape.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by xmanrigger View Post
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]2975[/ATTACH]

      Heatshrink rather than electrical tape on you sleeving is much cleaner and easier. Oh, and proper. No gooey mess when removed. But hey, if you dont have it, improvise. CanTire has a great assortment of heatshrink. Just be careful what you buy. Some is double walled with a sealant and adhesive. Either works great, but the double wall is harder to remove if you need to.

      Here is a little trick I do when sleeving. I use a razer knife to seperate the adhesive from the dual wall heatshrink. I cut it into little pieces and slip a small piece or two inside between the heatshrink and sleeving. This makes for a great bond, and can be released again with a little heat. Keeps the heatshrink where you want it.

      I am sure you can even find it in the size to cover the bottom of your D5 as you did with tape.
      Thanks and yes I know heatshrink is easier/cleaner and I actually work at canadian tire and have access to free heatshrink because I work at the shop. It was either wait a day before I could do anything because they were closed or use electrical tape so since I use my main pc for other income also I decided to just use tape. Also I gotta tear the thing apart again when I paint the case so I can do it properly then and turns out I got to cut the sleeving a little shorter also. I only ever use double walled if I need something sealed tight and waterproof otherwise the regular stuff works just fine for me but I'm sure many people will like your suggestion.

      Well I guess I better post the next part of the update. So I had to find a way to make the res more secure. I know I will never be shipping this thing to anyone else but I do think I would like to take it to a lan event someday which means I would have to transport it in a car and having a res just sitting there with no support wouldn't go over too well I don't think even if I drove as carefully as possible. So onto the adventure of finding a way to secure the res without having it right on the motherboard tray like a lot of people tend to do with these types of side clamp brackets. So it just so happens while I was going through the scrap metal at work I found some that would work nicely and oddly enough was only 2mm short of being the perfect size so good enough. This is a piece I cut off as they were about 6 feet long and I think someone else took the rest anyways.

      Here is the semi final result. I won't paint them yet, I'll wait until I paint the whole case. They are cut to the proper size though and work like a charm.





      That doesn't look too bad even without being painted.

      Time to remove that stock mount from the Sabertooth. That thermal spread isn't too bad either could've been better though.





      Pretty sure this is how you do it, I didn't read the instructions :/ but anyways I put the backplate with rubber isolator on and posts with washers to hold it in. Then proceeded to put the block on tightening in an X pattern. pretty simple stuff but I guess if people haven't done this before I can understand it being a little daunting. Anyways got it all mounted and the board back in place, meaning time to add one thing to that list of stuff to do; make CPU cutout.



      Mmmm sexy.







      It's hard to tell in this picture but the plexi bottom is there I was lining up the holes to cut out on it. I realized this after running some of my tubing that I would eventually have to do that.

      This is where I tried to make the holes as tight as possible since this is the visible part of the bottom plate. I didn't use any measuring tools I just kinda eye balled it and it just so happened to work.

      Still not sure if I will keep the plexi clear and have a black underside what i might end up doing and what i wish is what I did for the front panel in the first place is paint the underside only and have the unpainted side up I think that would solve my trapped dirt issue with many of the later pics. I'll have to do that when I take it apart again to paint the entire case. I still think it looks pretty nice though.

      Here's my drain port on the under side of the case.






      Ok next update will be coming eventually this week.

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      • #33
        Cool drain port set up!
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        • #34
          Originally posted by DazMode View Post
          Cool drain port set up!
          Thanks Daz I still have to tip the case on it's side to fully drain the loop because of the way the res base is designed but at least I got a drain port on a tube I can have away from the computer and not have a big spill all over my hardware.

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          • #35
            Aaaand onto the update, real life strikes again so I'm a little behind and I'm actually posting this on my lunch break at work.
            Here's an example of the trapped dust issue. This is also when I started filling my loop and bleeding it for some reason it's very blue in all my pictures and videos but it mostly white when seen in person not to mention the bubbles don't help with the color either.







            The night time glow, I expect this to dim as the bubble dissipate because those bubbles will be bending light in all directions making it look brighter than usual. I'll update later with pics once all the bubbles get out of the res.





            All in all my tower is still pretty light only weighs 60lbs totally easy for lan events!

            Well that's it, I hope you all like it there's things I still need to do mainly: cut out a path for tubes to CPU block, fix bottom plexi plate, redo paint on front panel(easy cus of plasti-dip hooray), CPU cutout, paint the case etc etc. So there's still work to be done meaning this build is far from being done but at least it's mostly done. It'll be several*months until I can afford to get other upgrades(water cooled GPU for example) and stuff but I hope to get enough funds and time together to get the case painted in the next few months along with the other minor modifications. I'll grab some more glamour shots eventually.
            Last edited by NotSoEpicMods; 11-12-2014, 08:06 PM.

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            • #36
              60lbs! Its a girl!!
              HAF932 Mods
              C70 Mods

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              • #37
                Wow, talk about mod work.
                Good job on making work for you, especially that PCI-E cable run.
                I guess that now you are going to get that GPU cooled eh

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