First hard-tube build: Define R6

[technobot]

Hello, water cooling experts/hobbyists! I wanted to share my current project.

I attempted my first ever custom loop (soft tubing) on my previous system in Feb 2018. This was the initial result:



It worked but I wasn't thrilled with the runs, so I made some tweaks and came up with this:



In May 2018, I upgraded the system, reusing most of the previous loop. Notable changes: replaced top 280mm radiator with 360mm radiator, which allowed VRM cooling.



I apologize for my substandard iPhone/potato camera pictures and novice lighting/angles.

There were several things that bothered me about the loop order/layout. Replacing pump -> CPU run with pump -> GPU, using X-flow (cross flow) instead of normal U-flow for top rad, and changing the orientation of the front rad (ports on top instead of bottom) all seemed to add up to a cleaner/shorter run. Having re-done the loop several times since February, I wanted to wait for my next project (acrylic hard tubing) before proceeding.

[technobot]

This is the "new" beginning. Note: I removed the R6's back "wall" since I won't have 3.5" devices in this build, and skipped using NZXT's HUE+ and GRID units which were in my previous build. If I decide to reuse either device, they can be stored in the case's "basement".

[technobot]

Parts list:

Fractal Define R6 Black
Intel i7 8700K (delidded)
ASUS Maximus X Formula
G.SKILL TridentZ RGB DDR4 3200 CL14 (4 x 8GB)
EVGA FTW3 1080Ti
Samsung 960 PRO 1TB
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
Seasonic PRIME Ultra Titanium 850w
Cablemod SE Sleeved Cables (Black)
HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS X-Flow (top rad)
HWLabs Black Ice Nemesis 280GTS U-Flow (front rad)
Noctua NF-F12 CHROMAX x3 (top rad)
Noctua NF-A14 CHROMAX x2 (front rad)
Aquacomputer cuplex kryos NEXT (CPU block)
EKWB EVGA FTW3 1080Ti RGB (GPU block)
Aquacomputer kryoM.2 evo PCIe 3.0 x4 Adapter w/ passive heatsink
Singularity Computers Protium 100ml Reservoir Polished Acrylic
Singularity Computers Protium D5 Pump Top (Black)
Singularity Computers Protium D5 Pump Cover (Black/Silver)
Singularity Computers Reservoir Mount Core Single (Black)
Singularity Computers Backplate 140 Advanced (Black)
Bitspower Enhanced Multilink Adapter (16mm Shining Silver)
Bitspower Crystal Link Tube 500mm
a variety of other Bitspower fittings/adapters/extensions (Shining Silver)

[technobot]

A disclaimer: to build my confidence and make things easier on my first try, I tried to use straight lines and simple 90 degree bends. This could be done better with bends next time, obviating the need for the 90 degree adapters and any extensions. I love the SC res top, you can turn it to be at the necessary angle for this kind of straight run.



Top rad outlet to front rad inlet. Two 90 degree single rotary fittings with a 15mm male to male extension. I couldn't do it with a tube (not skilled enough). The front and top rads were thankfully able to be moved to just the right spots to make this work.



Easiest part of the loop. Could also be done with bends next time since the "height" doesn't really matter other than it has to be (mostly) equal on either end.

[wattermain]

Hey technobot. I just realized that I had to be logged in to see your images. Like the May 2018 revision with the 360 in the top and the mobo block. Can never have too many blocks.

[technobot]

Thank you, Wattermain! I hope you like the August (becoming September) 2018 revision... if I can ever finish it haha.

[Grinder]

I look forward to watching your progress with the hard tube (I am still clinging to soft). I'm a big Fractal Design fan as well. Good luck with your routing! Looks good so far.

[technobot]

I was originally going to "hide" the VRM outlet to top rad inlet run behind the left-most top rad fan. Since it would be hidden, the original solution used just fittings:



This was fun in a LEGO sort of way, but upon further reflection it kind of bothered me that I didn't do a tube run, since it's a fairly easy 90 degree bend, and I could use extensions to make up any gaps. I got a decent bend for the corner, shown here:



However, both this solution and the "all fittings monstrosity" introduced two major problems, an annoyance and the other a show-stopper:

1. Using my original tube solution, the tube was touching the rear IO armour. This really bothered me
2. Both solutions interfered with the left-most top rad fan. This was unacceptable, so I (kind of) started from scratch.

I wanted to reuse the tube I had worked on, so I came up with this:



Aesthetically, IMO, it's a little ugly but I didn't feel like bending and cutting up another tube. The right part (90 degree dual rotary to 45 degree dual rotary) I actually liked, but it's unnecessary. The left part is what bothers me, using that massive extension. This is definitely a candidate for a better run when my skills have (vastly) improved... it's a relatively easy "3D" bend, and I can eliminate the extension and the 45/90 degree adapters. But that's a project for a (much) later date since with 3D bends you have to be very precise, and obviously, I am not.

[Bartacus]

I feel your pain bud. Bending tube isn't my forte either, so I chose to do the same, stick to 90 bends with fittings / extensions. Spending excess money on fittings is a skill I DO have, but not tube bending.

[technobot]

Haha, Bartacus, this is a "skill" I'm definitely learning. You can solve almost any problem with fittings! I just purchased another from Daz today because the delays on this project are driving me crazy.

[technobot]

This was the GPU outlet to CPU inlet run. I tried to avoid any extra adapters because on my first try it looked really ugly, but it was unavoidable. Once again, I apologize for my iPhone noobery, and the photo doesn't show the next point: where the GPU port is located, it is offset 8mm to the left of the CPU port. Therefore, I used a 90 degree dual rotary to (mostly) create the offset; I'm still ~1mm off but it worked and it's airtight.

As an update, I'm actually further along in this project, but pressure testing has been... a revelation. I'm not complaining; it's much better to detect leaks with air than liquid. Plus, even a tiny air leak is still a leak. It's better to catch this now than in months when the system is actually running. When I picked up the tubing/fittings from Daz, I mentioned that I was a watercooling noob, and this was my first ever crack at hard tubing. He mentioned "you will make mistakes" and he was NOT KIDDING! hehe.

[technobot]

This was one source of the leaks, the pump outlet to GPU inlet. It's fixed here, but as you can see *even though I used a mandrel*, what was supposed to be a 90 degree angle ended up being an obtuse angle. I made two such mistakes, the previous VRM outlet to rad inlet was an acute angle. Anyway, what I discovered was I had the pump/res mounted in such a way that it made this run 90 degrees, which meant it wasn't quite flush where the tube meets the fitting at the GPU end. After I re-positioned the pump/res, creating the configuration seen here, I pushed the tube back in on the GPU side, and I could feel it "push in" if that makes sense.

The same situation occurred on the GPU to CPU run; looking closely where the tube connects to the fitting on the CPU inlet, I could see the tube was at an angle. After fixing these issues, I moved onto redoing the front rad outlet to res inlet run:



I originally did this with tube as you can see at the beginning of the log, but I made a change in the last two weeks: I used a 150mm reservoir instead of the 100mm. The 100mm looked a little silly because there was a huge empty section; it looks better with the 150mm in my opinion. Also, because of the way the angles work here, I discovered some constraints. First, the "vertical" run obviously depends on where the pump/res is positioned. i.e. any small change up or down and the tube won't be the correct length. The same goes for the part where the res port connects to the 90 degree adapter; if the pump/res is moved in either direction vertically, it requires the res top to be turned to adjust the angle. Depending on that angle, the length of the res port to 90 degree adapter section changes. The fittings I used here allow both sections to be adjusted if necessary. I used Bitspower Adjustable Aqualink Pipes; vertical part was 22-31mm with a 10mm extender; the section going to the res port was a 16-22mm pipe.

I tried to redo with a tube, but I found the issues before (if anything changes, the lengths required also change). Also, something that would be obvious to most of you wasn't to me: a Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Link fitting would not quite fit.

[Bartacus]

I had the same issue with alignment when I did my main rig. I ended up using a pair of 90 degree angle fittings to "straighten out" the GPU to CPU tube. It's more expense, but in my case, the alignment worked out almost perfectly.



It really depends on how OCD you are about things.

[technobot]

Final leak testing before flushing with distilled/filling with coolant.



System reassembled, cable mismanagement! (will tidy up a bit later)

[technobot]

(mostly) finished system. Will probably remove NZXT HUE+ light strips, or move closest to "basement" of case. What an ordeal, and these were easy mode bends. I can easily see what sets aside the pros like the friendly people in this forum and Daz, vs amateurs such as myself. But it's over and I'm mostly happy with the results, especially considering how bad I am at this sort of thing, how poorly I measure, etc..

To do:

- improve bending skills
- redo CPU - VRM - Top Rad runs. Will have CPU outlet go to VRM port directly above, and have other VRM outlet connecting to top rad inlet. This will require 3D bends
- consider vertical GPU mount