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Evolv shift 2 HTPC/light gaming build

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  • Evolv shift 2 HTPC/light gaming build

    after 5 years of not touching computers I am currently actively working on 3 builds at once, with maybe a 4th to build for someone else! I just haven't needed an upgrade and haven't been excited for new parts until I saw zen 4 landing, so upgrading my main rig to a 5900x for better 3d modeling performance. unfortunalty the program I use recently stopped supporting openGL for older AMD cards so I had to change to nvidia. not a fan of the company and I've never bought an nvidia card, but AMD just didn't have the performance for the price of used 20 series cards.
    anyways that means this PC is getting the old 1700x and I'll be lending the vega to a friend, so this comp is getting an R9 fury thats been sitting in my closet for years. Always wanted this case when it came out, glad its one of the cheaper cases now. the little cooler master cases that used to be $35 is now like $90. case prices are getting out of hand due to shipping prices.

    started with thinking about they layout of the hard tube, I'm going to use pass-thoughs up to the top of the case (which is where the i/o is located) and run an external quad rad outside the case. there is room for 1 or 2 120mm rads in the case but if you put 2 you can't have a fan on it, so i'm just using 1 in the case and I'm interested to see how much it can cool on its own. Darkside power!

    as mentioned before I am getting into 3d modeling. mostly things for building Warhammer 40k models, as thats the hobby I got into after quitting computers but its also nice to be able to whip up a custom piece for a PC build. here is a pass-though mount I made for the evolv 2, it will be directly above the GPU outlet and allow for the tubes to leave the case for the external rad. the first 2 are prototypes and the final was painted black.

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    painted the ram heat spreader red plastic bit with silver. this mobo has orange lighting so don't know if I will just stick to orange/black/silver theme or add RGB. already has RGB fan that comes with the case and the mobo has an RGB header. Phanteks has these really cool neon looking light strips I may try out. also think I have a bunch of darkside white LED's somewhere.
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  • #2
    Finally got my pump cover in the mail and finished the tubing. This case was very easy to work in considering its an itx.
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    I got some neat looking phanteks led strips to install. there is already a lot of lighting in this build, the mobo has lighting under the ram side, the case came with an rgb fan that I put as an intake in the bottom, and the pump/res has led's as well. they are all connected to the 5v ARGB header, interested to see how it works as it should be addressable. for years I used this mobo and it had orange lights, never bothered to see if there was a way to change it, so the build was going to be orange, but I found out it is also RGB.
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    I designed a passthough to the rear of the case as well. I was going to drill a hole in the mobo side to make routing easier, but then I decided I wanted to see more tubes. this way it comes back in behind the gpu and then zig zags back to the cpu. I also like how that routing worked out using 45s.
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    • #3
      Got the external rad assembled and filled with distilled water. using TT's ring rgb fans because they have their own controller which I am running a molex extension out the back to power. each hub only does 5 fans so I could only do one side. Using pull config because I feel that will be better for low rpm with thick rad. using a TT aluminum rad which I cleaned overnight by running sysprep though the loop. last time I think there was flux or something in one of these TT rads and it left a chalky residue.
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      ran the phanteks light strips, one around the rear fan using the provided clips. they have holes so I mounted them under the fan using the fan screws.

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      this one was more awkward to place, the top has 2 clips with double sided tape and then it just tucks in the edge of the case.
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      I tried filling the little res but it was so small it was taking a while to get anywhere. Just used the quick dissconnects to connect to an external pump/res.
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      since the res is so small (it may as well not exist actually) there is no down stem, meaning bubbles all the time. so I made a connection on top to use as a air bleed point. most of the air is out and running full rpm on the ddc is pretty quiet. letting it run overnight for a leak check.
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      • #4
        Well after filling the loop I accidentally introduced air into the system and had to re-bleed it. then I did it again. so I bled the system 2x, and then the next day I noticed that water was escaping from the O-ring on the cpu block. I only noticed because some rust colored water was appearing between the acrylic and metal. I guess it was getting into the screws.
        Nothing looked wrong with the o-ring, but there was residue on the metal coldplate. really didn't think that was an issue but cleaned it up more. it wasn't until I was comparing these 2 blocks (after changing the o-ring) that I noticed the one that was in the system before didn't flatten out like the replacement did. hopefully EK still sells these o-rings, I have 3 evo blocks! lol.
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        • #5
          Hey Necro, this build is coming together very nicely. Always did like these Evolv chassis. Looking forward to to seeing this guy fired up.
          The SLOB : A 3570K Build
          Down & Out : A 2600K Build
          V-353 : A 4770K Build


          • #6
            Originally posted by wattermain View Post
            Hey Necro, this build is coming together very nicely. Always did like these Evolv chassis. Looking forward to to seeing this guy fired up.
            Thanks. I really liked the original shift but never had a reason to need it. glad I waited and got the shift 2, seems like they made a lot of good changes including changing the whole layout.
            and you're in luck I plugged it in just to make sure it booted and I got one pic before it turned off for some reason. probably just the windows boot recovery thing, pretty sure that shuts down after a few min, but I'm going to hook up a screen and make sure its all good.
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            • #7
              well I made a mistake when re-wiring a psu connector from another psu for the molex power to the pump. the red and yellow wires were correct but I had the 2 black wires swapped places. the psu no longer provides power to the molex or sata which was a bummer. but my pump and fan controller I had plugged in were fine. This gave me the chance to buy an EVGA psu to replace the TT one. the TT had ribbon cables which were kinda nice in this case but the normal style was easier to route.
              also glad this mobo has the 5v aRGB header, makes it so you only need one program to control a bunch of leds. I was having problems with having 5 different programs to control lighting and even had to reinstall windows because some are just malware.

              stuff in the top is pretty tight with both tubes going though, but it works.
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              decided to go for 2x 360mm rad and use an external controller to control the fans. I also have it wired to the pump because I unknowingly installed a non controllable pump. its a DDC with 2 pins to a molex and 1 pin for a mobo header. I thought it was PWM controllable but obviously not with only 1 extra pin. this is a silent build so the pump needed to come down from 4k rpm. still running at about 1800rpm, which is higher than I would normally but without pwm I can't get to 1200 reliably. (the pump wont always start on such low voltage) I also really want to get 8 of daz's black GT's for this build as an upgrade one day. these cougar fans are pretty good but not as good as the 2 GT on the rad there.
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              This side is my favorite, although I'm kinda sad I can only have one side facing out at a time.
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              I really like the CPU routing but I think I need another LED by the PSU or something. I had hoped the bottom fan would provide more light. I would have also liked to have the led strip going down the side but the rad gets in the way on one side and psu on the other. I may buy one more of the phanteks strips.
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              of course the pictures are overexposed but in reality the pump looks nice and subtle.
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              I'd like to make a radiator stand and just tidy up a few things about this build, but I'm more content to go slow than I used to be. I had an idea to rear mount the rads to the back panel, but too much work currently.

              and temps are insane. running 3d mark firestrike had cpu and gpu both at about 31C, and during cpu loading the cpu only hit 40 at 21C ambient in the house. and I can hear the electronics whine when I open applications over the sound of the fans or the pump. external rads on everything!!!!
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