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Sometimes, I laugh at the naivety of the "watercooling" and "pc modding" communities. For example, charging $20 a litre for "Ultra Pure" water, like it gets any more pure than a $2 bottle of Aquafina, or a $3 jug of Life brand distilled from shoppers drug mart, is robbery.
Coolant manufacturers like to hide the truth behind a veil of bullshit so they can make money off your paranoia i.e "IS MY EXPENSIVE COMPUTER GOING TO RUST? EXPLODE? GUNK??? AHH!"
Basically there is two kinds of coolant on the market, EG, ethylene or propylene glycol based, and OAT ("green" vegetable coolant, like Mayhems,they call it water based.) And you CANNOT MIX THE TWO KINDS!
Do you own a car? Have you ever refilled the antifreeze? On your refill cap/jug it says "DO NOT MIX WITH XXXX COOLANT. ONLY USE XXXXX BRAND COOLANT" This is because of the incompatibility of EG, PG, and OAT coolants. EG (like dazmode protector) is very good for its anti-corrosive properties, it helps greatly with mixed metals, and sub zero temperatures It has been used in automobile engines since 1926 I believe. It replaced the methanol coolants that preceded it. However, EG coolants are HIGHLY TOXIC! and VERY BAD for the environment. It has a bad reputation of killing pets, as it has a sweet taste to it, yet it is straight poison. This is why they have been adding bitterants to antifreeze for quite some time now. To deter kids/pets from sipping it off the garage floor.
Proplyene Glycol is EG's younger, somewhat cooler brother. Same family, just less toxic, in so many words. Both of these chemicals are part of solutions that have other chemicals to maintain ph balance, reduce corrosion, and promote stability of the liquid. This liquid is dyed, then packaged as 'XXX coolant for XXX car manufacturer' Different types for different cars, and this brings me to the final major type of coolant;
OAT coolant (being Mayhems 'water based' veggie mystery) is currently the type of coolant used in Toyota and Honda automobiles. It is non-toxic, and very safe for the environment. It is 'all natural' (apparently). They DO NOT MIX with glycol based coolants (bad things can happen and do happen). The japanese manufacturers claim they have better performance, last longer, etc. Generally, automobile coolant lasts up to THREE YEARS! They have harsher operating environments, and sit out in hot/cold all day all night outside.
Here is the point, CAR / COMPUTER COOLANT = ONE AND THE SAME! SUUUUPRIIIIIISE!
It's time to get smart, and use only one type of coolant throughout the period of use of the watercooling loop (be that glycol based or OAT). Only top up with that kind of coolant, and use quality plasticizer-free hoses. The only known types in "waterfooling" world is Primochill Advanced LRT, there are obviously others but most tygon, masterkleer, and the home depot brand are bad news.
I for one, am using automobile coolant in my loop, its cheap, guaranteed, tested way more extensively than anything I can mix myself with ordered product. Also, it comes in various different colors for different brands/manufacturers. Some types might smell a bit, but my loop is sealed, so why would I worry about it, all coolants are chemical baths no matter what way you put it, so what if some of them happen to stink, they just forgot to put the anti-stink chemical in it. Automobiles suffer from the same plasticizer/corrosion issues we do, as they are exactly the same technology. General Motors and their coolant Dex-Cool was sued for plasticizer issues (later being found out that dex-cool an EG based coolant, was not at fault, read second link) A watercooling rad/motorcycle rad has VERY LITTLE differences, and anything for the automotive industry has to be good for our ultra low pressure, ultra low heat cooling loops. (hint, someone should try this)
The only simpler solution other than automobile antifreeze/coolant is distilled water and PT nuke/biocide. However this must be the first type of coolant used in the loop, and the only type of coolant used in the loop.
Use your head, be a smart consumer;
References/further reading
http://www.imcool.com/articles/antif...ocs/GMdocs.php
Coolant manufacturers like to hide the truth behind a veil of bullshit so they can make money off your paranoia i.e "IS MY EXPENSIVE COMPUTER GOING TO RUST? EXPLODE? GUNK??? AHH!"
Basically there is two kinds of coolant on the market, EG, ethylene or propylene glycol based, and OAT ("green" vegetable coolant, like Mayhems,they call it water based.) And you CANNOT MIX THE TWO KINDS!
Do you own a car? Have you ever refilled the antifreeze? On your refill cap/jug it says "DO NOT MIX WITH XXXX COOLANT. ONLY USE XXXXX BRAND COOLANT" This is because of the incompatibility of EG, PG, and OAT coolants. EG (like dazmode protector) is very good for its anti-corrosive properties, it helps greatly with mixed metals, and sub zero temperatures It has been used in automobile engines since 1926 I believe. It replaced the methanol coolants that preceded it. However, EG coolants are HIGHLY TOXIC! and VERY BAD for the environment. It has a bad reputation of killing pets, as it has a sweet taste to it, yet it is straight poison. This is why they have been adding bitterants to antifreeze for quite some time now. To deter kids/pets from sipping it off the garage floor.
Proplyene Glycol is EG's younger, somewhat cooler brother. Same family, just less toxic, in so many words. Both of these chemicals are part of solutions that have other chemicals to maintain ph balance, reduce corrosion, and promote stability of the liquid. This liquid is dyed, then packaged as 'XXX coolant for XXX car manufacturer' Different types for different cars, and this brings me to the final major type of coolant;
OAT coolant (being Mayhems 'water based' veggie mystery) is currently the type of coolant used in Toyota and Honda automobiles. It is non-toxic, and very safe for the environment. It is 'all natural' (apparently). They DO NOT MIX with glycol based coolants (bad things can happen and do happen). The japanese manufacturers claim they have better performance, last longer, etc. Generally, automobile coolant lasts up to THREE YEARS! They have harsher operating environments, and sit out in hot/cold all day all night outside.
Here is the point, CAR / COMPUTER COOLANT = ONE AND THE SAME! SUUUUPRIIIIIISE!
It's time to get smart, and use only one type of coolant throughout the period of use of the watercooling loop (be that glycol based or OAT). Only top up with that kind of coolant, and use quality plasticizer-free hoses. The only known types in "waterfooling" world is Primochill Advanced LRT, there are obviously others but most tygon, masterkleer, and the home depot brand are bad news.
I for one, am using automobile coolant in my loop, its cheap, guaranteed, tested way more extensively than anything I can mix myself with ordered product. Also, it comes in various different colors for different brands/manufacturers. Some types might smell a bit, but my loop is sealed, so why would I worry about it, all coolants are chemical baths no matter what way you put it, so what if some of them happen to stink, they just forgot to put the anti-stink chemical in it. Automobiles suffer from the same plasticizer/corrosion issues we do, as they are exactly the same technology. General Motors and their coolant Dex-Cool was sued for plasticizer issues (later being found out that dex-cool an EG based coolant, was not at fault, read second link) A watercooling rad/motorcycle rad has VERY LITTLE differences, and anything for the automotive industry has to be good for our ultra low pressure, ultra low heat cooling loops. (hint, someone should try this)
The only simpler solution other than automobile antifreeze/coolant is distilled water and PT nuke/biocide. However this must be the first type of coolant used in the loop, and the only type of coolant used in the loop.
Use your head, be a smart consumer;
References/further reading
http://www.imcool.com/articles/antif...ocs/GMdocs.php
they can avoid the corrosion inhibitors, which I think have some reaction with plasticizer tubing. This part is just theory that I've come up with based on my numerous readings.
or product lines that vary a lot and characteristics therein.
Yes if you are going to use the vintage version for copper compatibility. However if you look at it carefully it says that temps are consistent but a little higher than water. Make sure you are using a good TIM on surfaces to keep temps a bit lower. Also check and see if there are any heat transfer problems at the lower temps that we run at.
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