First serious planning for water cooling, have concerns with case and mobo layout

[Hoki]

Case: Obsidian 550D Mid-Tower
Mobo: P9x79 pro
CPU: Intel Core i7 3820 @ 4.52ish OD'd
Ram: Corsair Vengeance 16GB dual/quad channel ddr3 (2x 8gb sticks)
PSU: AX1200 super overkill but its modular
GPUs: some cheap, loud, pieces of garbage, don't worry about those
CPU cooler: H100i

My layout:


I want to create a custom loop but I'm not sure what parts I should use.

Top radiator clearance issues:



Bottom potential radiator clearance issues:




I'm not sure what to do. The case itself is optimized for low noise and it is very quite, but doesn't have a lot of radiator clearance.

Because the H100i is the slimmest radiator there is, I'd have to replace it with an extra-slim darkside radiator.
Are the extra-slim radiators much worse than slightly thicker normal ones? or even the double-thick ones?

Another thing I just thought of, is it possible to re-use a closed loop radiator like the one i already have on the H100i? I'd rather hold onto it instead of destroying it if one of you knows if its possible or not. It seems like a perfectly good radiator that I could maybe salvage.

So anyways there are a lot of things going through my head and I'm not sure what to do.
The case isn't very ideal for radiator clearance, but it is more subtle look, doesn't scream "I live in my parent's basement!", and is very quiet.
I do care about aestetics but only on the outside. Most cooling enthusiasts care about how their loops look, I care more about my case looking and sounding discrete, but secretly enclosing a beast machine.
The only other case I looked at that I like is the fractal design define xl black pearl, but that doesn't seem like its any better in terms of radiator clearance. I wish someone would make bayless cases with loads of front intake and top output.

If anyone knows of a secret, handsome, NORMAL looking bayless case that can do 420mm top and 420mm front at the same time, let me know please. I'm serious about the bayless part, I don't even know why case manufacturers include them anymore. We use them maybe 3 times total and are supposed to dedicated a gallon of volume for them.. sorry I'll stop ranting.

Anyways I was thinking about putting a 240mm radiator in the front, but that has clearance issues as well. I'd have to either remove and replace the bays, if thats even possible, or cut part of it off with a saw.
Either way I've watched your videos and know that radiators on air intake are sort of counter-intuitive, blowing hotter air into the machine. One thing I'd counter that with is that I have a lot of air intake from the side of the case, 2x 140mm fans blowing directly onto the motherboard.

So, lots of questions I know, but before I buy anything I want to know what kind of radiator setup I should go for.

Going to follow this up with specifics of what I was thinking about doing and you guys tell me if I'm crazy or not.

[DazMode]

If Radiator is copper, that will be ok to reuse, if aluminum better not.

[Hooded]

Also need to know if the H100i radiator uses a G1/4 thread to attach fittings for tube.
That case wasn't made for water cooling. If you wish to use it you will need to mod it a fair bit or look at a case that is easier to water cool in.
The Phanteks line is currently my case of choice these days cause Caselabs is beyond my budget.

[Hoki]

Also need to know if the H100i radiator uses a G1/4 thread to attach fittings for tube.
That case wasn't made for water cooling. If you wish to use it you will need to mod it a fair bit or look at a case that is easier to water cool in.
The Phanteks line is currently my case of choice these days cause Caselabs is beyond my budget.

Yeah, I was thinking a new case might simplify some things.

If I go with modding the current case, I could go with a slim 140mm radiator going out the back, and still have clearance for a slim 240mm radiator out the top.

To get a medium thickness 240mm rad in the top, I'd need to replace the mobo heatsinks for lower profile ones or a water block. That is starting to seem like it wouldn't pay off in the end, it would make the fit a whole lot more complicated for not that much better performance.

The front I could do a really thick 240mm rad but only if I do some modding. The question is, since it'll be blowing warmer air in, will it hurt performance, get a little bit more performance, or get a considerable better performance, just not as good as when blowing air out.

Well I guess I could technically blow air out the front, I never really considered that.. Maybe turn blow air in through the back and side (420mm total), and blow air out through the front and top (480mm total). That actually seems like it might work, but I am probably forgetting something important.

What do you guys think? I'll replace the H100i rad if I need to, i'll figure out if I need to later.

[Hooded]

Using the front for intake would with a rad be fine.
Also not sure if you case is wide enough but possibly 2 - 120 slims on they're side may work in the front on your case. But these would need to be Dazmode Slim LP rads as they are the only ones small enough to do that. Then a 240 up top.
Remember you will need some room for the pump and res as well.

[Grinder]

Welcome Hoki!

A few thoughts - I don't think I'd reuse the H100i rad, as it would be a pain to attach to the loop, probably just sell it off. Would a thin 2x140 rad fit up top (with the fans adjacent to the case, rather than the rad, if need be)? The thinnest 2x140 I could find in Canada was 29.7mm, your H100i rad is 27mm I believe.

It doesn't look like a 2x120 rad would fit in the front without cutting some material out of the bottom of the optical bays. If you plan on modding, another option might be to cut another fan opening in the base in order to install a rad in the bottom. I'm about to do that for one of my builds. But removing part of the optical bay would likely be easier.


*edit* Hmm, in that first pic it appears that with 140 vs 120 and even the same thickness rad, you might have clearance issues with the mobo, but I can't quite see well enough to be sure.

[Hoki]

Welcome Hoki!

A few thoughts - I don't think I'd reuse the H100i rad, as it would be a pain to attach to the loop, probably just sell it off. Would a thin 2x140 rad fit up top (with the fans adjacent to the case, rather than the rad, if need be)? The thinnest 2x140 I could find in Canada was 29.7mm, your H100i rad is 27mm I believe.

It doesn't look like a 2x120 rad would fit in the front without cutting some material out of the bottom of the optical bays. If you plan on modding, another option might be to cut another fan opening in the base in order to install a rad in the bottom. I'm about to do that for one of my builds. But removing part of the optical bay would likely be easier.


*edit* Hmm, in that first pic it appears that with 140 vs 120 and even the same thickness rad, you might have clearance issues with the mobo, but I can't quite see well enough to be sure.

Here are some super closeups of the clearance issues with the heatsinks.

They seem to be very nice heatsinks connected via heat pipe, however the one is particularly problematic. Asus doesn't seem to be too concerned about respecting care real-estate in this regard, so I was looking at maybe water cooling at least part of the motherboard.

The blue parts on both heatsinks don't have clearance issues irrc. The only truly problematic part is that silver piece, and now I'm thinking about investigating if I can take the silver part off completely, or maybe machining part of it off. The p9x79 waterblocks don't even cover the part that the silver piece does.

I've heard that the mobo heatsinks are perfectly good at cooling the mobo passively.

If I do water cool the part that has clearance issues, which will cause a more complicated loop, I not actually sure that the other heatsink that is connected by heatpipe is worth keeping.



Heatkiller's waterblock coverage only seems to be concerned with the "voltage regulators" which is apparently the big obnoxious heatsink, and the chipset heatsink.

You'll notice that the other heatsinks that are connected by heatpipes don't even get coverage. Maybe those are only there to act as additional heat coverage for the voltage regulators and chipset?
Does that sound about right? I don't mind WC the voltage regulators as long as I don't fry some other part.

[gabuuzz]

I've the same case and I'm planing to do a "custom loop" with a H220.
I'll use the h220 rad on top (29mm + fans = 53.7mm). It's very close to touch the motherboard, but it doesn't. You need to verify with your motherboard... you can always mount the fans outside of the case, but im not a big fan of it...

the 2nd rad will be on the front. I'll have to do some modification on the case.
I'll have to cut the bottom part of the optical drive cage (maybe not all of it...). I already tryed to do it with a saw, but I stopped... it's VERY slow. The best would be to use a dremel, but mine broke...
I'll also have to move the HDD cage. In theorie, I'll only have to drill new holes at the bottom of the case to make it work. With a 25-30mm rad + fans, I should have enough space for the cables.

You should not use the h100i rad, you'll get more of it by selling it.

I'll create a "worklog" thread when I receive the rad and the H220 (I had the RMA it...)

Good luck with your project!

[Hoki]

If Radiator is copper, that will be ok to reuse, if aluminum better not.

Looks like its aluminum, I'll just sell the H100i when I'm done.

[Hoki]

Welcome Hoki!

A few thoughts - I don't think I'd reuse the H100i rad, as it would be a pain to attach to the loop, probably just sell it off. Would a thin 2x140 rad fit up top (with the fans adjacent to the case, rather than the rad, if need be)? The thinnest 2x140 I could find in Canada was 29.7mm, your H100i rad is 27mm I believe.

It doesn't look like a 2x120 rad would fit in the front without cutting some material out of the bottom of the optical bays. If you plan on modding, another option might be to cut another fan opening in the base in order to install a rad in the bottom. I'm about to do that for one of my builds. But removing part of the optical bay would likely be easier.


*edit* Hmm, in that first pic it appears that with 140 vs 120 and even the same thickness rad, you might have clearance issues with the mobo, but I can't quite see well enough to be sure.

Thanks Grinder! I replied to you but it has images so a mod has to approve it first.

Lets see if an externally linked image will need mod approval.

http://postimg.org/image/xuqqc3b5z/

[MRDcanadian]

I know you could add a 140mm radiator on the rear fan mount if radiators are not too large, i say that as that fans seems close to the edge of the case in the close up picture, or you could mount the 140mm radiator outside and that would not be an issue like you already mention. does that case have a bottom intake if you remove the hdd cage?

[Hoki]

Hey guys, made some modifications to my layout this weekend in attempts to buy myself some more options.

First I removed the silver part of the voltage-regulator heatsink to ensure I have the option of a thin 240mm rad at the top of the case.



I didn't know that it was attached by screws, so I used.. a more primitive form of removal.



If a google search for P9x79 heatsink removal guide brings you to this thread, you are able to remove the silver part without removing the entire heatpipe assembly.
The "Dual Intelligent Processors" bit is just a metal sticker held on by sticky material that isn't very strong.
You could probably pry up the sticker with a hobby knife, then you have access to the two screws that attack the silver heatsink to the blue one.
Then just slide off the silver part of the heatsink and voila!

[Hoki]

I've the same case and I'm planing to do a "custom loop" with a H220.
I'll use the h220 rad on top (29mm + fans = 53.7mm). It's very close to touch the motherboard, but it doesn't. You need to verify with your motherboard... you can always mount the fans outside of the case, but im not a big fan of it...

the 2nd rad will be on the front. I'll have to do some modification on the case.
I'll have to cut the bottom part of the optical drive cage (maybe not all of it...). I already tryed to do it with a saw, but I stopped... it's VERY slow. The best would be to use a dremel, but mine broke...
I'll also have to move the HDD cage. In theorie, I'll only have to drill new holes at the bottom of the case to make it work. With a 25-30mm rad + fans, I should have enough space for the cables.

You should not use the h100i rad, you'll get more of it by selling it.

I'll create a "worklog" thread when I receive the rad and the H220 (I had the RMA it...)

Good luck with your project!

Hey man, I finished removing the HDD cage this weekend and thought I'd share how I did it.
There are 4 screws and 6 little metallic nubs holding the cage in place.
Corsair machine pressed the cage to front of the case and the mobo tray, so they definitely don't want you removing it.



However the nubs are fused in such a way that you can easily sheer them off with a sharp, narrow wood chisel.
Nubs 1 and 2 you want to attack from the right side of the case, they can't be sheered from the inside.
Nubs 3, 4, 5, and 6 have to be sheered off from the inside, and you don't have much clearance, so I doubt it can be done with anything much thicker than a 6mm chisel.

You'll want to cut in only about half way at an angle, then pry up, repeat until it pops off.

Good news is that if you want to put the cage back in, I was able to do so with standard case screws no problem, even where the nubs were.
Though I don't plan on putting the cage back in. I have an idea for a flat, horizontal HDD mount that I'm going to try out this week.

Basically going to mount them on a 2mm corrugated plastic "tray" that will be inserted behind the fans on the right-hand side.



What this will do is give you room enough in the front to do the thickest 360mm triple-core radiator if you so choose.
I'm thinking about greatly simplifying the loop to only use one rad in the front for now.
If I can put a rad that big in, and I only plan to cool 1 GPU and 1 CPU, I think maybe one big monster rad will be sufficient. Though I want to get everyone else's opinion on that.

[Grinder]

Nice outside the box thinking, for inside the box

[gabuuzz]

Nice idea for the Hdd/ssd mount!
Keep us updated