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Questions from a noob - Loop order and a couple other things
Right yah I've had experience with that sort of thing doing fish tanks, perhaps I'll plan for a longer length for the vent tube and install a valve in front of it off the tee junction so I can remove just remove the tube afterwards.
Thank you for all this great advice, honestly without it I would have surely gotten myself into trouble without it.
Been thinking about that venting spot between my two rads - The distance between those two ports is only 85mm, I was already thinking of getting two 90 degree fittings (https://www.dazmode.com/store/shop/w...-mf-g14-black/) to make it a straight tube and that'll cut the distance down even more, then add in a T which at least the one I already bought is 23mm I'm thinking of filling in the rest with spacers, including two that'd let me rotate the T around to make life easier.
The alternative is I could attach the vent's T to one of the outer ports, the furthest one in that first pic would hide it pretty well I think, then I could just do a straight tube between the two rads and not have to guess at the spacers.
Ahh so the measuring goes from center of port...that's also good to know and makes sense! Okay so going by that its actually 103mm, so if I understand this right the D-plug you suggested can rotate freely as well? That's one heck of a handy part!
So to make the bridge I could go for something like this:
103 - 20 (2x rotary 90s you linked) = 83
83 - 23 (my existing T) = 60
...and eat the remaining 60mm using two of those D-plugs?
Hey man I just wanted to offer my further thanks for walking through the plans for the build with me, I just got the parts to continue this afternoon and the air venting assembly looks great:
The D-plugs gave the spacing needed, just a little wary of how they interact with the T, if I turn it back and forth a few times one side or the other starts to lose its bite on the T. Is it possibly maybe to grease the inside of the D-plug so that the two sections can rotate without as much friction maybe?
I managed to find a can of 3-in-one professional silicon lube, I understand the kind you manually apply is better but there weren't any among my options. Ah well in the end it didn't do anything really to help with the stiffness but once I seated the rads in place it became pretty clear I wouldn't need to manipulate the T junction, its fine to assume a static position that's inherently tucked away out of sight.
So a new question that's a little more conventional - Fan headers vs splitters. I have 6 of these vardar RGB guys and according to their specs the fan portion eats 2.16w each at worst case, I bought a 1x6 splitter cable ahead of time but didn't really think of what the motherboard header could handle. According to Gigabyte all of the Z390 Auros Master's headers are 24W (2Ax12v) so it sounds pretty safe to have them all hooked into the same header and that would be ideal. I just wanted to double check with people who've used fan arrays before as this will be my first. I do have a 1x3 splitter that came with the EK kit so I could do two runs for three fans each but if I could keep all the fans for the rads on the same header I think that'd be nicer for a couple reasons.
It shouldn't.
I use this on many hydrogen system o-rings in the nuclear plants. Actually improves sealing and life of o-rings according to engineering.
Check the fans amps, if the total of all fans is less than 2amps then the splitter should work fine.
Yah I mean that's what I was thinking, while EK doesn't spell out the amperage of the fans if they're able to draw 2.16w from a 12v system that means roughly 0.2A each which would be plenty of head room. I'm actually changing my mind after running a couple of these cables and now looking at fan controllers to use instead of the splitter, seems I goofed when ordering the 1x6 splitter, got a 3pin when I need 4 pin. A controller will let me run a nicer looking cable up to the motherboard.
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