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**Hooded** · 10-19-2020, 11:27 PM

12 mm OD, 10 mm ID tubing

Any DDC or D5 pump will more than handle a custom loop.

Rad choice will depend on a couple things. Case space available to fit rads. minimum of a 120 single rad/component. I would get at least a 240 rad for each block to allow for better overhead. Go for a 360/block to run the fans at low speeds. Go for a 480/block if overclocking and want quiet system.

Get a case that will fit you rad choice.

Get the blocks that look the best to you and fall with in your budget.
If getting both CPU. and GPU blocks try to get them from same company so they will look like a match.
Also be careful to check the GPU block will fit the GPU you choose. Not all GPU's will have blocks made for them.

Quick connect fittings will cost you a ton. Most systems use compression fittings. Quick Connect fitting are mainly used to filling and draining operations.

**notgod** · 10-20-2020, 04:01 PM

The 011 Dynamic XL will be an excellent choice for a first time water build. I just completed a build with the 011 Dynamic. It is a bit smaller, but was the easiest case I have ever water cooled. There was no modding to easily fit 2X Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 360 rads with an ATX mobo. These are 60mm rads. You could quite possibly fit 3X thinner 360 rads with no mods. The only mod I did was make a panel out of plexi to cover the side rad mounting space. I mounted the rez to it. Cable management is a breeze also with this case. Oh, and did I mention the case is tits straight out of the box? With the Dynamic XL, it is possible to have upper and lower rads and still vertically mount the GPU. Not possible with the Dynamic with a lower rad as well. With the two Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 360 rads, my temps are great with overclocks. i7-3930K at 4700mhz, and RTX 2070 Super at 2100mhz/2000mhz. Gaming, CPU stays under 60C and the GPU only gets to 47C. That is with the pump almost lowest speed and fans at low speed.

Speaking of fan speed, you are going to want to control them. I am using a Rampage IV Formula mobo. Not a big fan of plugging in shit to onboard fan headers. Fear of robbing mobo of power when overclocking. Obviously with the Dynamic cases, there are no externally accessible drive bays. I hid the fan controller behind rear panel. Pain in the ass to change fan speed, but hey, it works. There are other better options for controlling the fans than what I did.

When buying water cooling components, ensure all are either full copper, or all aluminum. Dont mix copper and aluminum components. Galvanic corrosion can be very nasty. Stick with copper for best performance.

Flex/soft tubing is a great option for a first build. A lot easier to work with and much more forgiving. You can easily fashion a simple, clean, and good looking loop with soft tubing and compression fittings. I use Tygon 1/2" X 3/4" for soft tubing. Yup, some of still use it. LOL

If planning to overclock, like Hooded said, I would use a minimum of 240 rad/block. With the Dynamic, I would suggest 2X 360 with a variable D5 pump. Higher volume of water with a lower pump and fan speed make for an almost silent PC. The D5 pumps are not near as loud as the DDC pumps. The DDC is more compact and higher flow. But in my experience, come at the cost of noise. Some cheaper DDC pumps can actually burn themselves out.

And as Hooded suggested, be careful buying a GPU block. Check and double check compatibility to the specific model, not just the brand. I am a Heatkiller fan. I have used their CPU/GPU blocks for years. Top tier performance and aesthetics.

As far as the EK CPU blocks go, buy the one that looks the best to you. They will all have similar performance. As I said above, I am a Heatkiller fan boy. With that said, I have an EK Full Copper Supreme HF CPU block. This block is not only compatible with a shit-ton of different CPU platforms, it performs at the top. I have had it on almost every Intel CPU from Core2-Duo to the i7-S2011 platform.

Not a Thermaltake fan at all, but they were the only fans I could purchase locally to get 6 matching fans. I bought 2X Pure12 ARGB Sync 3-pack. They are addressable and come with a dinky little controller to control colour and modes. Each kit comes with a controller, but several kits can be daisy-chained and controlled with just one controller. They are also compatible with Asus and a couple other mobo brands. I have to say the fans work great so far. We will see in time.

Dont be shy. Get at it. Dont get too carried away. Just concentrate on a clean, simple, and efficient build first time around. The bling can come later.

**Bartacus** · 10-20-2020, 05:54 PM

Good call on the XL, I liked it so much I bought two. Each one currently has three Darkside slim 360 radiators. Those are pretty cheap, like $70 a pop. If you can afford it, I'd go with at least 2 of those. Heck I'd just go for three, but that amount of fans will add significant cost to the build. Keep in mind that whatever water cooling parts you buy are going be probably be keepers, and a triple 360 loop will handle any system with ease. So if you end up keeping that case, it could potentially last you for multiple water cooled builds with the same set of rads/fans/pump combo.

For tube, you need to decide up front: are you going to jump right into hard tube, or use flexible for the first time? Make that choice first, then pick the size. For hard tube most people run 12mm, personally I find that a bit small, but eye of the beholder and all that. I run 16mm hard tube in one of the XLs, but that requires 16mm fittings, which are definitely bigger, and not as easy to work with in tight places as the 12mm fittings. I run 3/8 5/8 soft tube in the other. They both work, tube size only affects looks, not performance.

As for the old rule of "120mm of rad space per component", I think it's long past time we put the nail in that coffin, that rule doesn't apply anymore. Not in the days when 8 core is the new minimum for a CPU. 360mm would be my minimum nowadays for an 8 core CPU. Chances are you'll be running at *least* 8, if not 12 cores plus, depending on budget. A 240 is a bit light for a Ryzen 8 core IMHO. Plus on the GPU front, OP is targeting an AMD GPU, and from past experience those things NEVER run cool, and god help him if he overclocks it, LOL! I can make my Radeon VII pull almost 400W from the wall when the overclocking works, and MAN does it toss off some heat. 360 would be my personal minimum for that too.

Good luck with the build! Be sure to post plenty of pics!

EDIT: +1 on the HeatKiller recommendation, big fanboy here! Heatkiller for CPU block without a doubt, along with a HeatKiller D5 reservoir / pump combo. My Threadripper rig is nothing but Heatkiller parts across the board, no regrets!

**section31** · 10-21-2020, 07:02 PM

FYI, Heatkiller has confirmed they will be releasing new internal radiators this November. Me and my friends are going to be buying it together direct from Germany since Dazmode is unlikely to get any stock for at least couple months.

First new major radiators in some time. Only info we know is its 120mm-480mm and thickness is 30mm/45mm. It's supposedly doesn't need to be cleaned and designed for sub-1000rpm fans. Something to keep an eye on.

CPU Block take an look at Techn. Pretty new player that comes from same tree as Aquacomputer/Heatkiller and is made in Germany. According to Igor's Lab, its top performing AM4 block by 2.4degrees. Only 99Euro (take off 16% VAT for outside EU purchases). Its literally someone took an Threadripper (Heatkiller/Optimus Style) but used the Optimus Microfins. Pretty good for the price you are paying for it.

https://www.igorslab.de/en/techn-cpu...tum-magnitude/
https://hardware-helden.de/sieben-wa...Waterblock_AM4

Things are starting to heatup again in the CPU and GPU block designs. The shift back to better performance over RGB nonsense. The new players (Optimus, Techn, Etc) are putting pressure on the big players to update there products linesup. Even Heatkiller now has CPU block redesign and Mo-Ra3 Updates coming. Aquacomputer been refreshing its total lineup too. I read that heatkiller coming out with an aquacomputer d5 next clone.

**Hooded** · 10-21-2020, 10:11 PM

Daz has a fairly nice selection of HeatKiller rads

https://www.dazmode.com/product-cate...urer=watercool

**majoram** · 10-22-2020, 03:06 AM

Thanks all for the suggestions so far!
I have read and reread it all a couple of times already.

Despite all the advice, I keep falling back and gazing at the pretty lights

I've been using mini-PCs and laptops for many years now. It's been awhile since I've powered on a desktop. I am eye-candy deprived.....

But I am fighting the desire...

Here's what I am sure about to start with:
- 360 rad. A minimum 45mm or 60mm at the bottom. Maybe the Heatkiller.
- 12mm or 14mm hard tube. I have to see it to decide.
- I'll go with a CPU block that's lower priced than the EK-Quantum Magnitude I was looking at.

Still to decide:
- Pump
- Reservoir

For the future:
- Another 360 Rad. Maybe that redesigned Heatkiller that Daz might get in some months.
- A different CPU block. By this time I would probably be overclocking and fooling around with settings.

That's it for now. Got more reading to do.
Getting my SILVER Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL sooon....... tomorrow if all goes well.

Any suggestions on fans?
I was going for the Lian Li Unifans but they are impossible to find. I like mostly that it eliminates a LOT of cables (and yes the pretty lights are a bonus).

**section31** · 10-22-2020, 03:05 PM

Fans are bit hard to find atm. Go look at Noctua A12x25 and how expensive they are (40cad is msrp). Have to get them from amazon.com nowadays.

In regards to the unifans, you can buy single pack if you don’t intend to use the controller. I actually did that and just got the pack of those fans with controller too. Not sure if i will use them though. Ongoing issue with having too many aquacomputer devices (d5 next, aq6lt, next flow temp sensor) and only two usb two usb 2.0 mobo headers.

CPU block - the heatkiller, aquacomputer, etc should do the job just fine. Wait for the am5/lga1700 in late 2021/2022blocks before you update.

Reservoir - Thats tough one. There front/side distro plate or you can go traditional and do the heatkiller tube design. Budget plays an role too.

Pump - Any D5 is good as long made by laing/xylem but my suggestion is the optimus d5 pump (xylem). Its 75usd plus 20-30usd shipping but it and aquacomputer d5 next are only ones that use sata power connection versus molex.

If your looking for good deal combo unit, look at aquacomputer ultitube with d5 pwm. It works out to cheaper than buying pump/reservoir seperately. I hope dazmode brings it in, at around 200cad its an incredible deal.

**section31** · 10-22-2020, 03:16 PM

My fan suggestion for rads are any of these (whatever you can find and not jacked up in price)

arctic Cooling P12, Arctic Cooling Bionix P120, Noctua A12x25, Coolermaster SF120M, Darkside Gentle Typhoon, Bequiet one (All non-rgb). There are couple more options i forgot but not easy to find here.

I really like the 12mm optimus ht fittings but again not sure you want to pay 75usd for pack of six. I replaced all my BP Fittings (including soft ones) with Optimus. All my friends builds will be using Optimus fittings. I have heard EKWB Torque , Phantek are good. The BP Advanced is ok only from my experience.

**section31** · 10-22-2020, 03:25 PM

The lianli uni i would say help on cabling but you could get same results using daisy chain fans and dazmode y splitter/extenders. So its not an requirement per say.

You can see here how helpful the connector is

Attached Files

**Bartacus** · 10-22-2020, 09:30 PM

For fans, you won't beat those Darkside typhoons for price versus performance, the 2150rpm PWM variant are my go-to's for non-RGB fans. RGB fans are a different kettle of fish and a total pain in the arse, LOL! I'm running Fractal Design Prisma AL-120s in my TR rig, but you can't find those anywhere anymore, and they ain't cheap (cost me over $500 for 10 of em).

**section31** · 10-22-2020, 09:49 PM

Originally posted by Bartacus View Post

For fans, you won't beat those Darkside typhoons for price versus performance, the 2150rpm PWM variant are my go-to's for non-RGB fans. RGB fans are a different kettle of fish and a total pain in the arse, LOL! I'm running Fractal Design Prisma AL-120s in my TR rig, but you can't find those anywhere anymore, and they ain't cheap (cost me over $500 for 10 of em).

Fans are really expensive in Canada all of sudden. Those are descent RGB fans. You wouldn't believe the amount of people asking me about my Noctua A12x25 i hold. The best deal was the Arctic Cooling P12 at pack of five for 30cad but they don't exist anymore.

That's not bad per say. I bought 14 x A12x25 for my two rigs (now one so i have excess). So i spend like 600Cad on rad fans.

**majoram** · 10-23-2020, 06:11 AM

Augh!!! This fan situation blows! <pun intended>

I'm beginning to think I should just wait out the stock situation and patiently buy the parts piece by piece.
Almost every part of the loop that I want is backordered or costs way too much to get from the US or elsewhere.

**Hooded** · 10-23-2020, 10:58 AM

Yup always a tough call when to buy.
There is so much new hardware coming out in the 4th quarter and new year.
Keep your eye on the reviews to get best bang for your bucks.

**section31** · 10-23-2020, 03:57 PM

Originally posted by Hooded View Post

Yup always a tough call when to buy.
There is so much new hardware coming out in the 4th quarter and new year.
Keep your eye on the reviews to get best bang for your bucks.

Good point there. In 2021/2022, expect to see alderlake (10nm LGA1700)/AM5 (Ryzen 6000) with Dddr5 Support, Usb4, PCIE5. Watercooling upgrade will be interesting, basically aquacomputer/heatkiller/etc are updating and introducing new products. I bought the aqua flow sensor in May to only replace it with the next version of new one now.

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