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Bart's big hard tube rebuild (will probably be pic heavy)

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  • Bart's big hard tube rebuild (will probably be pic heavy)

    Gentlemen, I've finally decided to re-do my current soft tube loop (3/8 5/8) in my Case Labs M8, right now running with a lot of red and desperately needing some love. I'm making a log here to motivate myself to finally get this thing fixed up right, over time. And also as a reminder to myself of what I need to do. I'm old, and the memory is shot to hell! System kinda looks like this currently, a hot mess:



    I must say, under bright white light, sharpie modded Dominators look so good in red:



    This is an old pic, but that awful flow meter location is still in place today:



    This will be a rather long running build (err, re-build?) log. My system is a neglected mess, and while functioning brilliantly as far as performance goes, there's a laundry list of awful things wrong with it. The wiring is a mess (obviously), the D5 pumps aren't sleeved, the pump top configuration is uglier than hell (and facing backwards in the top pic above), no PSU / GPU cable sleeving or even extensions, cables behind the motherboard are a nightmare, etc!

    I've decided to do the following over the coming weeks / months:

    1) change to 16mm PETG hard tube and Dark Side chrome fittings, since there's tons of bling bling rapper teeth in my build already with the Doms + shiny EK back plates!
    2) color scheme change from red to purple / white / silver, but with more white light, not drowned in color like it is now;
    3) CPU block / pump top LEDs changed to either white or UV purple, not sure yet; all LEDs are on a fan controller, so I can dim them or kill them;
    4) coolant change to light purple (transparent though, not pastel); I'm just going to use distilled + Daz Protect + Feser purple dye;
    5) re-do that awful RGB acrylic light panel for better light dispersion;
    6) switch to a long Dark Side tube res, but maintain the dual D5 top but mounted properly (without that add-on reservoir);
    7) switch to a bay-mounted flow meter display to clean that up (already have the parts);
    8) make my own PSU / GPU extensions from Daz's pre-sleeved pre-pinned cables (done, more on that later);
    9) switch Dominator Platinum light bar inserts to purple ones (done, more on that later);
    10) sleeve the D5 pumps, and install sexy purple D5 dressing kits from Daz;
    11) clean up rats nest from hell of awful molex connections / HDD cables in behind the mobo (shudder);
    12) make my own HDD power cable for my mechanical HDD cage (I did one already, but it's gross and needs to be re-done properly, it was my first time);
    13) replace flaky D5 vario;

    I'm also going to play with PWM stuff at some point. I just nabbed 12 PWM Gentle Typhoons from Daz's Xmas sale, but I still need to get proper splitters, cables, etc. I'm still missing a part or 2 there. Eventually I'd like to go all JP Modified on this mother, but I'm moving at the end of March, so no tool purchases until I buy a new house (I have very few tools now due to a break in a while back). More to come soon!!

    Bart

  • #2
    May be refresh cpu block , raystorm gets really dated
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    • #3
      Right on Bart.
      Looking forward to your new tube runs.
      Would recommend Acrylic over PETG tube for your fluid type.
      Blue Dragon CM690 II an i7 - 960 x58 build
      OverKill HTPC - Red Team Build an AMD FX6100 with dual HD 5870's in crossfire.
      Canadian Amateur Modding Competition

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      • #4
        Yum love m8s, I say acrylic too. But for my own reasons. I find acrylic a lot easier to work with( cut, bend, and mostly chamber)

        Looks great love to see some walk thrus on the rgb midplate

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        • #5
          Awesome... Can't wait

          I agree with Daz, change up that CPU block. A nice clear acrylic from EK t0 match up your SLI bridge...

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          • #6
            Bastards, I like my Raystorm!!! Plus I HATE EK CPU blocks. Boring ugly squares, and nothing but. Yuck. I could be talked into a Heatkiller block though. Although I REALLY don't want to re-do my CPU thermal paste. I used that Indigo Extreme liquid metal stuff, and that CPU hasn't seen 60C yet. Stuff works amazingly, but the install is painful.

            Daz: you getting stock on Heatkiller CPU blocks anytime soon? The nice clear ones?

            Hooded: I considered that, but wanted to try PETG. I find acrylic painful to work with, especially cutting the stuff. PETG is supposed to be much easier to cut. I would have gone Mayhems for the coolant, but Daz is out of stock on the clear stuff. My coolant choice might be very temporary, so I'm not too worried about glycol + PETG. I'm moving in 3 months, so a lot is going to change over the next few weeks, and I'll probably be disassembling / draining the rig for the move anyway.

            Trestles: considered that too, but my pedestal is almost as packed as yours (great work on your build BTW, loving it). I have 2 Monstas in there, so not much room for pass through tubes, except near the dead center of the pedestal. Plus, that panel is thicker than it looks (it's about a half inch). It's ghetto as hell, and wasn't made very well since I don't have proper tools (lost most of those in a break-in). I may re-create it completely from scratch, and make it thinner. Right now it's 3 layers, the middle layer being 8mm thick clear (bottom layer is 3mm mirrored, top layer is 3mm white).

            Thanks for the input gents! I will be harassing you with questions and begging for guidance as I go through this, so be warned.

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            • #7
              Mod #1: re-coloring the Dominator Platinum memory light bar inserts.


              The first "mod" (if you can even call it that) for this re-build was to re-sharpie-paint the Dom Plat inserts. The problem is I only had the one kit of inserts, and that kit comes with 2 sets of inserts: one clear set (which I had already painted red), and one light blue set. So I had to use the light blue. Using a purple sharpie, it did come out purple IRL, but there's still a bluish tint, which gets exaggerated even more when the memory is powered up. So it came out more "blurple" than purple. Still looks cool though.

              Here's a shot of the difference. The 3 on the right are "stock" blue, left one is after one "coat" with a purple Sharpie marker:



              A closer look:



              All 4 done, and I'm buzzed off marker stink. Gross, I much prefer wine!!!



              I scuffed up the tops with 80 grit sandpaper, just to "haze" the insert a little. I was toying with the idea of slipping a shortened Darkside UV LED strip under there, but it's too tight a fit. I'd have to re-solder the wires to the shortened strip, and even then you'd probably still have to cut up the memory a little to make it fit. I decided it wasn't worth it. Scuffed top, compared to the previous red insert (which popped out right before I took the pic, DOH!):



              Before and after:



              Back in place:



              Mod #1 done!

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              • #8
                Nice
                Blue Dragon CM690 II an i7 - 960 x58 build
                OverKill HTPC - Red Team Build an AMD FX6100 with dual HD 5870's in crossfire.
                Canadian Amateur Modding Competition

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                • #9
                  Mod #2: DIY cable extensions using Daz's pre-sleeved wires

                  I decided to DIY my own extensions, since I despise sleeving. So I picked up some pre-sleeved wires from Daz in three colors, UV purple, titanium gray, and white:



                  Had some issues with the purple cables though. I managed to break a pair of 24 pin "closed" cable combs because some purple cables wouldn't fit:



                  But thankfully I bought enough to git er done. Daz warns on his website that he can't guarantee all cables are exactly the same length, so one end is a bit warped depending on how you bend the cable:



                  GPU extensions were a nightmare. 5 12 pin closed combs on each pair, combined with the problematic purple cables, was sleeving-level suffering, almost. But it got done, with not many cables to spare:



                  I REALLY wish I had a cable tester. Very nervous to test these things, since I'm the idiot who made them! Mod #2 done, if I don't fry anything!

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                  • #10
                    Awesome bart. to mod dominators all ya need is a sharpie . I have seen so many how can I mod my dominator posts you should show this to the masses haha
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                    • #11
                      Easiest mod ever man. Gotta use an original Sharpie though. I've tried other similar stuff with no-name markers and it came out like crap. But the Sharpies that I had laying in a box for 3 years untouched work great. They were still soaking wet.

                      BONUS PIC: the most awesome cable management ever!

                      Last edited by Bartacus; 12-17-2016, 08:05 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Bartacus View Post
                        Mod #2: DIY cable extensions using Daz's pre-sleeved wires

                        I REALLY wish I had a cable tester. Very nervous to test these things, since I'm the idiot who made them! Mod #2 done, if I don't fry anything!
                        Looks good Bart, I have a cable tester. Let me know and I can bring it to work on Tuesday....

                        I really didn't find acrylic that bad to work with if you have the proper tools. A dremel works really well to cut then just a simple file to round out the edges... The rimmer Daz has would be handy I think though instead of the file.... I can lend you my dremel as well if you want to go acrylic....

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                        • #13
                          I use a small hacksaw I bought at the hardware store for acrylic tube, helps if you have a guide but you just have to hold it tight. The EK saw I have blows at cutting any tube.

                          As for extension just check you have cables running from clip side on connector part to clip side on other connector. If you connect them end to end and the same cables are touching each other, you are good.

                          Also looking really good!

                          And I'm also waiting for the acrylic heatkiller blocks to be back! They are most pretty cpu block, and match my 295x2!
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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by guilly08 View Post
                            Looks good Bart, I have a cable tester. Let me know and I can bring it to work on Tuesday....

                            I really didn't find acrylic that bad to work with if you have the proper tools. A dremel works really well to cut then just a simple file to round out the edges... The rimmer Daz has would be handy I think though instead of the file.... I can lend you my dremel as well if you want to go acrylic....
                            Definitely interested in that PSU tester, so bring that in!! I have a Dremel (two actually, one original and a Crappy Tire one). I used a hacksaw on the 12mm acrylic, and got Daz' rimmer tool as well. And I still managed to cut o-rings several times.

                            Necro: thanks man! The cables do touch each other properly, so I think I'm good. I just have no faith in myself. I also have a HeatKiller nickel block in my car now, thanks to all this peer pressure. It will bling-match all my other bling! Which might be too much bling. Gonna have to do the lighting right on this one.

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                            • #15
                              As long as all wires strictly parallel, no crossing , it is 100 % safe.
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