My First PETG install and Primochill VUE

[ontariotl]

I can't remember a time where I kept changing my LED lighting just for a coolant. I've been back and forth, but I think I found my balance between white and red. I don't want it flooded with red or white. So some red and white LED's are near each other to balance out. The important thing is the red doesn't look as rosy as it did before. It looks more like lava now.

I've also changed the cpu block to red and made the G.Skill ram a mixture of red and white. I'm truly happy now. It's my final decision.

[snef]

IMO led is your own taste, if you prefer red over white, go for it its your computer


but red led with red coolant don't fit so well for me, you loose the color of the coolant and the contrast effect , all become red in the build

for white led, you absolutely need good white led like Darkside, not RGB, RGB set to white is not white, its a mix of all color and its blue, I saw some cablemod RGB set to white turn on Pink
in your video with white led, I think you need to drop a biut the voltage , they seem really to bright, maybe its because of the camera

and another think , its hard to judge with video, Camera don't show the real color

for me the real lava effect is Orange coolant(aurora or primochill vue) with white led behind

[ontariotl]

IMO led is your own taste, if you prefer red over white, go for it its your computer


but red led with red coolant don't fit so well for me, you loose the color of the coolant and the contrast effect , all become red in the build

for white led, you absolutely need good white led like Darkside, not RGB, RGB set to white is not white, its a mix of all color and its blue, I saw some cablemod RGB set to white turn on Pink
in your video with white led, I think you need to drop a biut the voltage , they seem really to bright, maybe its because of the camera

and another think , its hard to judge with video, Camera don't show the real color

for me the real lava effect is Orange coolant(aurora or primochill vue) with white led behind

You are absolutely right, the camera doesn't pick it up right. I'm just using a simple cell phone camera. Maybe if I borrow my buddies DSLR will help.

I also agree about pure white LED's. I don't have any rgb LED's in my build (well with exception of the G.Skill Trident Z RBG). Just Darkside pure red and pure white with dimmers installed and set to a lower setting. So again, probably the camera playing tricks. However when I do use just white LED's, the fluid looks like pink when running in the loop to the naked eye, hense throwing some red LED's for a little balance. This is probably due to the colour I chose of Powder Red. Looks great in the bottle, but once you put it in the loop it looks a little too light. I wanted to get Crimson Red which is a darker colour, but they stated red goes darker after time with their testing so that made me change my mind to get the lighter colour.

Unfortunately Vue does not come in orange just yet. However, you and my buddy agree that too much red drowns it out. I realise it's my own taste that matters, but damn I just can't make up even my own mind
I guess I should also get a better capture device to show it properly as well

For now, I just took some pics with my trusty old Lumix camera to show what it's closer to the naked eye than the camera on the phone.

This is what it looks like to the naked eye with just white LED. The fluid looks a little too pink for my liking. Also I wish I could mount the white led directly on the acrylic but it highlights all the drill marks from the CNC machine enough that it is distracting.


Here is what my videos show for the most part with white and red mixed in. Damn camera hates me. Red crush all the way, but I'm far from being a professional photographer.


Now with some lighting and the flash, this is closer to represent what it looks like to the naked eye as best as can be, with no video.





Ok, I'm an idiot! I didnt' realise I could record a video with my flash on. Show's you how many times I do this kinda thing. A little better to what it looks like to the naked eye.

[10e]

I have to agree with Daz in regards to Primochill. Their quality is dicey at best.

My first set of acrylic tubes were Primochill from Performance PCs, and instead of bending with the proper bending rod, they just bulged and sagged, even with the Monsoon Mandrel bending kit. My feeling is that it was a batch of mis-labeled polycarbonate. I've heated polycarbonate in the past and it did the same thing where it warped and was nearly impossible to bend properly.

That being said, I will await your results on this OntarioTL. After about 4-6 months you will know whether the stuff worked properly. A good thing to do is disassemble the loop a bit and look at your CPU water block specifically. 99% of the time (IMHO) you will see trash build up from rads and components in there because of the tight and narrow water channels and fins that block the junk. So far any time I've had rubber o-ring "filings" or radiator bits that I didn't rinse out, this is where they were.

I just bought a bunch of PETG from Daz, but I bought the 12/8mm stuff and the 16/12mm stuff. I remember Snef's client build that had the PETG tube that collapsed (presumably) due to a slightly warmer component where it was installed, and I wouldn't want to have this happen again.

Having bent both the 12/10mm PETG and acrylic, and both the 16/12mm PETG and acrylic, It takes far more heat to bend the 12/8 or 16/12mm PETG than the 12/10. The 12/10 stuff would wilt and bend almost instantly under my heat gun, and then proceed to bubbling almost right away. But I do like cutting PETG more, I don't need a jig, and pretty much any pipe cutter will do. It's good that Daz sells the thicker wall stuff.

Sorry for the long diatribe! Good luck OntarioTL, and welcome here, coming from HWC

[DazMode]

Problem with petg is not that it collapses, but beings soft to start with, in warm system it molds around sealing orings and eventually seal fails. You get slow leak which is worst as it hard to spot till something shortcut.

[Bartacus]

That lava effect looks awesome! I hope the liquid lives up to the hype. Very cool looking stuff, especially for a vertical mount GPU.

[ontariotl]

That lava effect looks awesome! I hope the liquid lives up to the hype. Very cool looking stuff, especially for a vertical mount GPU.

So far 10 weeks in, I haven't had an issue. I've even completed a couple of update videos to show what is up for those who decide to try it. Although, there has been failures from other owners as well since Primochill didn't bother to stipulate the do's and don'ts before pouring Vue into your loop. That was pure BS from Primochill as that really didn't help the skepticism of the product.

I will say this with all the failures reported, at least none didn't eat away any of the nickel plating as some suspected for it to happen.

10e I will definitely update from time to time good or bad. When I hit between 4 to 6 months (fingers crossed) I will be tearing the blocks apart to examine and share for sure before adding the second bottle I have.

As for PETG, I used Thermaltake's 16mm PETG tubing and so far haven't had any issues. That's including only having one quad rad instead of my triple, quad and double connected to another room for really good cooling. Now with Vega overclocked and running, temps do get a little toasty when it's running a game. I don't have a temp gauge inline, but I should use my infrared temp gauge to see what it gets to.

[Bartacus]

Cool, thanks for updating this thread, and doing some vids! That helps the community out big time, especially people considering Vue. Well done!

[ontariotl]

Week 14 update.

[MackTheKnight]

Thanks for the update on this! Looks like it's still holding up well. LED quit working on your left most gskill trident stick?

[ontariotl]

Thanks for the update on this! Looks like it's still holding up well. LED quit working on your left most gskill trident stick?

Yeah having issues more with my Trident Z RBG sticks more than my primochill at the moment. I may have to pop them in my other system to see if I can get them going. Already tried a few tricks I found.

[Bartacus]

Yeah having issues more with my Trident Z RBG sticks more than my primochill at the moment. I may have to pop them in my other system to see if I can get them going. Already tried a few tricks I found.

Did the SPD tables get corrupted, or is it just a lighting issue? Hope it's just the looks, since I know a few people who corrupted their sticks and had to re-write the SPD tables with Thaiphoon Burner

[ontariotl]

Did the SPD tables get corrupted, or is it just a lighting issue? Hope it's just the looks, since I know a few people who corrupted their sticks and had to re-write the SPD tables with Thaiphoon Burner

Not sure yet. The Ram is fine, just the LED's wont set back to default. I can swap them around and the issue follows. It is quite possible the SPD tables is partially corrupted or it wont allow it to write to the SPD for the colour change. It just happened a few days ago and haven't bothered to put too much effort into fixing it yet.

On occasion, one or two sticks would bugger up in the past where I would have to go back to default or do the power off for 3 minute trick and they would come back without issue. Now it's fighting me. And it's not an Asus board that you have to enable the write option. Oh well. I've tried to reinstall the G.skill software and it says I don't have any RGB. I'll figure it out eventually.

[Bartacus]

The free version of Thaiphoon Burner can read / validate your SPD tables, so that might not be a bad option at this point. It won't hurt to check.

[10e]

I had this happen before with my G.Skill RGB Trident Z set.

The LEDs didn't turn on with my MSI board with Mystic Light or whatever it's called, as soon as I put it on my Asus Prime X370 pro with the Aura software updated, things went back to normal. Very weird RAM in that regard, but with RAM/DDR4 prices being what they are, replacing RAM is a costly endeavour these days.

What I was trying to say before, was that the 2mm wall PETG is fine, and can handle a lot more heat than the 1mm thick stuff, so 16/12 or 12/8 is much more heat resistant than the 12/10 stuff. I don't see it collapsing any time soon. The one advantage I found with PETG is the ability to cut it straight. Acrylic can be a pain in the butt if you don't have a proper jig, but PETG, because it can be cut with rotating regular pipe cutters works out much better.

So far so good, OntarioTL. Keep up with the up-----dating