actually you see what i mean very well if you look at the holes to screw in the rear fan in that pic (just from the outside)
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well i am attempting to find a way to fit either a 200mm or 180mm rad in front. if it was flat to mesh, mathematics and preliminary measurement dictate that i should have 60mm flush from end of gpu to front of case. considering that all rad have 4-5mm from frame to fins (if GPU doesn't line up with the frame) i could fit a 30mm fan with a 35mm radiator, i would just need to find 1 or 2 mm of extra room (to make sure gpu doesn't vibrate with it the rad/fan). it's so close not to consider modding that case to fit it some way. but now these little things eat up 2mm and that means i am 4mm short . i am sure with a hammer and piece i am not familiar of the name i can flatneen it, it's that extra 2 mm that i am worried about, white metal isn't the most resistant to such punishment.
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Originally posted by Father Fuzzy View Postguess you would have to use like a nail punch and do all the indents
or grind them all
gpu going to hit the fan?
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was surprised test fitting some stuff in the case that i have laying around, that EK 140mm XT I had in the orange gt case will fit for the rear fan mount . if i can work that front fan stuff i will probably go water cooling in this build. no 200mm or 180mm fan that is 25mm thick is worth sticking to a radiator and a 140mm radiator will not cool the whole thing. no use putting water cooling stuff in if its not enough to do the job it's required to or worst then the stock cooling with the hardware.
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you don't necessarily only have to modify the case itself you can also modify slightly the corners of the fan shaving the contact area down (as long as the blades don't start hitting the other bumps.Corsair 800D
2xD5S > FX-8370 > CH4-EX > 6990 > 6990 > 2x1080 rads > return
Software Developer
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hey everyone little update for you all.
Bought this weeken an corsair AX850 from canada computers as they are on special. now as i expected the power supply doesn't fit with the wires connected in it. also i wasn't sure about the top part of the case and having the drive bay on top. so it was time to follow the advise of a forum member and take out the router and pop a few rivets . so for the first time i gave a go at it. here is some before pictures of the motherboard tray/power supply cover
so the goal was to try to keep the mount for the SSD on at least one side for now at least.
didn't repaint the case yet, will wait to do that later. not sure i am satisfied with the way it look because of the original holes that was there for cabling. I have a few ideas up my sleeve that i will explore.Last edited by MRDcanadian; 03-11-2013, 03:12 PM.
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also decided to look into another setup for the front of the case. Bought some 5mm screws with nuts to reattach the mobo tray and the front of the case.
that Bitfenix logo is either holding with glue on there or was manufactured with the panel so i wasn't able to turn it around when i quickly looked at it a few min ago. so it's sitting upside down...for now as i am calling it a night.
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Might have been able to use a Lian Li psu extender which allows the psu to stick out the back by, let`s see ahhh 58 mm.3770K IHS removed-Max V gene-2x4gig ram Gskills 2400 Trident X-2x400watt Qmax TEC`s with dew point controller-420 Monsta rad for TEC hotside-360 TFC Xchanger for dual 670`s-RP452 res with 2xD5 vario pumps- HF Supreme with modified plate-DD Cp Pro pump for cold side of TEC and cpu block-Dual CM haf 922`s and a Seasonic X-1250 Psu
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Can't you put a 240 rad up top?
Also seen some mesh front covers for the Prodigy that looked awesome.Blue Dragon CM690 II an i7 - 960 x58 build
OverKill HTPC - Red Team Build an AMD FX6100 with dual HD 5870's in crossfire.
Canadian Amateur Modding Competition
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